All Forum Comments
What programme are you using to read the EXIF data? Most here would recommend PhotoMe which is a free download and will reveal everything you wish to know and a lot more besides...
Comment by hefty1 posted on Missing Exposure Details at 15/07/2010 - 21:30
Tim beat me to it - glad to see we're singing from the same hymn sheet though.
Comment by hefty1 posted on OLd Cokin filters at 15/07/2010 - 11:04
You can still use old Cokin filters, it's just that most of them probably won't be worth the bother.
The ones that are still useful for digital work are ND, ND graduated and polarisers.
The ones that are not so useful are those used to add or correct colour (can all be done in-camera now using white balance settings) or special effects like starbursts etc (much easier to apply post-capture in Photoshop or the like).
Camera shops like to sell you new toys and while it's true that modern filters may have special "designed for digital" coatings etc it doesn't mean that all your old ones will suddenly stop working...
As for the lenses, if you were using them with the KM and ME then there's no reason they won't work on the K-x. The only one you need to be careful with is the Ricoh as some of them had an extra pin that can get stuck on modern cameras, if you can post a picture of the back of the lens someone can let you know if it's safe to mount or not.
The ones that are still useful for digital work are ND, ND graduated and polarisers.
The ones that are not so useful are those used to add or correct colour (can all be done in-camera now using white balance settings) or special effects like starbursts etc (much easier to apply post-capture in Photoshop or the like).
Camera shops like to sell you new toys and while it's true that modern filters may have special "designed for digital" coatings etc it doesn't mean that all your old ones will suddenly stop working...
As for the lenses, if you were using them with the KM and ME then there's no reason they won't work on the K-x. The only one you need to be careful with is the Ricoh as some of them had an extra pin that can get stuck on modern cameras, if you can post a picture of the back of the lens someone can let you know if it's safe to mount or not.
Comment by hefty1 posted on OLd Cokin filters at 15/07/2010 - 11:02
womble wrote:
RIP Kodachrome
I've used half a roll this week in the LX, expecting to finish it this weekend then that'll be the last. To be honest I'm not a huge fan of slide film and always used Velvia when the need arose, but for old time's sake when I saw the last roll in Boots last week... RIP Kodachrome
Comment by hefty1 posted on Boots Slide Film- Do they still process it? at 09/07/2010 - 17:59
thoughton wrote:
I always thought it was some kind of weight on a rod which detects if the image was taken portrait or landscape orientation? The sensor wouldn't make such a loud clunk would it?
It's not "just" the sensor though, it's also the housing that it sits in.I always thought it was some kind of weight on a rod which detects if the image was taken portrait or landscape orientation? The sensor wouldn't make such a loud clunk would it?
It is the SR mechanism. The sensor isn't restrained from moving until the moment of capture when it is held in place (or moved to compensate for shake) by electromagnets around its perimeter. At other times it's free to move around and make thudding noises.
Pentax missed a trick by not mentioning this in the manual, new owners worried by the thud is probably one of the most frequently covered topics on these boards.
Pentax missed a trick by not mentioning this in the manual, new owners worried by the thud is probably one of the most frequently covered topics on these boards.
Yes, the lens is a clone of the original Pentax 50-200 and the hoods are freely interchangeable between them.
Comment by hefty1 posted on Hood Samsung 50-200 ED at 09/07/2010 - 11:37
bigcog wrote:
My K10D is set the way JR describes except for "Switch off the variable setting for WB and change to fixed value" I am not sure how you set.
I am still a bit disappointed with printed results for anything that is a strong red colour. Does not seem to matter where I get the prints done. These are images straight from the camera. Everything else in the picture prints the way I see it on screen except the reds. So someone might have a red santa hat on, the picture looks fine but the red on the hat is too oversaturated and the different shades in the red are lost and completely overblown.
Has anyone else experienced this with the K10D? Should I get the camera checked out by a specialist?
If you're seeing the results correctly on screen but they're failing to print then the problem lies between your computer and your printer - not the camera.My K10D is set the way JR describes except for "Switch off the variable setting for WB and change to fixed value" I am not sure how you set.
I am still a bit disappointed with printed results for anything that is a strong red colour. Does not seem to matter where I get the prints done. These are images straight from the camera. Everything else in the picture prints the way I see it on screen except the reds. So someone might have a red santa hat on, the picture looks fine but the red on the hat is too oversaturated and the different shades in the red are lost and completely overblown.
Has anyone else experienced this with the K10D? Should I get the camera checked out by a specialist?
I'm no expert on colour management so hopefully someone else can explain what you need to do to sort it out.
Comment by hefty1 posted on Do you like Pentax colour? at 09/07/2010 - 11:28
Jetsam1 wrote:
Much of it will be in a wood, so actually using the "rule" may be good to go for ASA 125 as the weather may be cloudy too. So could have ap at f2 or 11 and be ok at a shutter speed of 50?
I would hazard a guess that f/11 and 1/50 at ISO125 should get you reasonable results in a wooded area (sunny day), however, if you're taking a digital compact then you can always use that as a makeshift light meter - try a shot at those settings and see instantly how it comes out before committing yourself to film. Much of it will be in a wood, so actually using the "rule" may be good to go for ASA 125 as the weather may be cloudy too. So could have ap at f2 or 11 and be ok at a shutter speed of 50?
If your Voigtlander doesn't already have a strap then try and get one. One of the greatest advantages of a TLR camera like the Brilliant is that you can hang it quite still from your neck and shoot at slower speeds than you'd normally be able to get with an SLR held at eye-level. Blur free shots at 1/25 (or even longer) should be quite achieveable if you need them.
Comment by hefty1 posted on Voightlander Brilliant 1934 or thereabouts....! at 08/07/2010 - 11:11
