Home developing isn't really my sort of thing - much rather have a lab do it for me to be honest

I've got half a fridge full of good in-date films that I can get processed at £1.99/roll so the Ektachrome was only an idle curiosity thing. If it means more money and/or hassle to shoot them I won't be bothering.

I often send packages to the US via my eBay sales and regular airmail normally takes around 7-10 days. Having said that, sometimes things get caught up in customs checks and *can* take up to 21 days (in my experience). The Post Office itself won't consider a missing package claim until 28 days have elapsed.

As for Rocky, yes he's disorganised but I don't believe he's deliberately fraudulant. If he says it's been sent when you call him then I'd take that as being true.

Well they do list it, but they only develop it in black and white chemistry and charge £40/roll for the service. I'm not that keen to be honest!

I picked up a box of camera kit at the weekend (another auction) which included some sealed boxes of Kodak Ektachrome-X with a use-by date of September 1968 stamped on them. It's rated at ASA64 so it should be quite stable, I've just got to find somewhere that will develop E-2 and I'll give it a whirl...

If only I'd read this comment 10 minutes ago, just before I accepted that offer of five magic beans...

In the last year I've used:

DA12-24
DA35 Macro
D-FA100 Macro

and that's it really on the K10D. I'm seriously thinking of selling the two FA Limiteds as they just don't get any use these days, plus I think I'm quite happy with a 3 lens wide/normal/long set up. Decisions, decisions...

I'd say £250 is probably fair (given it's boxed and has the extra batteries/lens), just not cheap. Sometimes they come up for less than that but I've also seen them sell on eBay for more. I'd offer £225 and see what he says.

I've had my K10D since new and it has quite a few more actuations on it. The only problems I've had were back focus issues (cured by delving into the debug menu in the firmware as Mike mentions above) and torn rubber on the eyecup (just bought a new eyecup from SRS). Other than that it still looks and works pretty much as new.

My Dad has a Digilux 2 - the flash basically has two positions when it pops up; straight ahead (like every other camera) or 45 degrees upwards. It's really not a particularly complex mechanism but being able to bounce with the onboard flash does make a huge difference. Can't think why others haven't copied it tbh.

Yes! Like the one on the Leica Digilux 2 did. I often wondered why more companies didn't do that as it's such a simple but effective idea.

Manual control of the on board flash (not just EV compensation but actual 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, etc settings). Should be simple enough in the firmware.

Other than that I'm pretty happy with my camera.