I don't own a Jessops flash so I can only go by their advertising blurb where it states it's a "dedicated TTL flashgun". Of course, that doesn't mean it doesn't support P-TTL but if it did I'd have expected them to mention the fact..?

Still, this is Jessops, I'm probably expecting too much to think they'd actually know their own products.

The lens will work just fine on a modern Pentax (or Samsung) DSLR, however, the flash probably won't. Film cameras of that era (and the very first DSLRs) used a flash protocol called TTL, current DSLRs use a protocol called P-TTL and the two aren't compatible.

I don't know your flash, but if it has the option for manual control then you could still use it in that mode. If not then it'll always output at full power so a new model may be in order.

And yes, the Tamron is a very good lens!

Welcome to the forum

No, both the Vivitar and the Sigma are just "auto" lenses with the sticky-out pin at the bottom to operate the iris. Fairly generic M42 design.

^^ I agree with Graham ^^

I recently acquired a 135mm Sonnar and it's a stunner - if I'd known it'd be this good I'd have bought one ages ago!

I also concur about the Helios 44 (various versions). I've had several run through my hands (I've two of them for sale on eBay right now with free cameras attached) and they've all been great performers. Very cheap too!

Unfortunately, you're unlikely to pick up a really cheap wide angle - the closest you'll come will probably be the Zenitar 16mm fish eye if you can find one. Not especially "fishy" on APS-C but more like a wide angle with pronounced barrel distortion.

If you're looking for something around the 24-28mm mark can I shamelessly point you towards two more of my eBay auctions that finish on Thursday night?

Vivitar 28mm f2.8

Sigma 24mm f2.8

They're both M42 mount and worked just fine in my tests...

Hello Wilf and welcome

If you're happy with the body then stick with it 'til it breaks (that's my intention with my K10D), glass is always a better "investment" I reckon.

Thanks Martin! I used to love Wheeler Dealers and I quite fancy (re)building a Porsche 924 next - this was my second "Project Saab 900" (not including the mint low mileage example sat in the garage) so I need a different challenge.

You don't have a truly "green" car until you've rescued one from a scrapyard and rebuilt it using the parts of around a dozen others (not to mention hundreds of hours of labour and gallons of blood / sweat / tears). I shouldn't have to pay any road tax - due to my recycling efforts the Government should pay me...

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/006qees/IMGP5216.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/006qees/IMGP5218.jpg[/IMG]

PS. She loves scampering in the snow! Forget your flabby 4x4's and school run MPV's and get a Swedish car with a set of TOYO Proxes - you'll never look back!

The D-FA100 makes a sublime portrait / short telephoto lens. Here's a couple of examples:

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/competition%20stuff/IMGP1614.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/competition%20stuff/IMGP1933.jpg[/IMG]

Of course it's pretty damn good at close range too...

Hello sandesh, welcome to the forum.

The key to getting good results is practice, practice, practice!

Cameras always take longer to auto focus on subjects that are close to the lens - this is why manual focus is preferable in those situations. Are you sure you're not too close? With the DA18-55 lens the minimum focus distance is 25cm, with the DA50-200 the minimum focus distance is 1.1m - you may need to step back a couple of paces.

Also, autofocus systems require light to lock onto their target - the lower the ambient light the longer they'll take to get a lock. Again, this is where you would normally switch to manual focus for quicker and more reliable results.

Keep practicing and you'll get the hang of it in no time!