Hello jukar and welcome to the forum.

Firstly the lenses:

Pentax SMC-FA 31mm f/1.8 Limited

Tech review
Photo Gallery

Pentax SMC-DA 35mm f/2.8 Macro Limited

In-depth review
Photo Gallery

Pentax SMC-FA 35mm f/2 AL (no longer in production but still available in many places)

Tech Review
Photo Gallery

And don't forget that the K20D will allow you to use any lens Pentax have made since the 1950's (even the medium format and screw-fit ones with an adapter) and give you metering, focus confirmation and shake reduction with all of them.

As for AF, the K20D actually has 9 of the 11 sensors as cross-type. AF is slightly slower than Nikon and Canon cameras but tends to be more accurate than either. In the real world it's unlikely you'll notice much difference between them. AF is (relatively) noisy with older style screw-driven lenses but whisper-quiet with the latest SDM lenses. The SDM lenses don't really offer a speed advantage but the lack of noise can sometimes create the illusion that they do.

I'm still using a K10D so my RAW files wouldn't be of interest to you, but I'm sure there's someone here willing to email you one to play with.

Judging by the prices 110 equipment fetches on eBay it's probably the most valuable part of my entire kit!

LOL! Good points well made

How about getting a small dedicated camera bag (one with padding and dividers), take the strap / handles off and put the whole thing inside a large-ish handbag of your choice? Hey presto, you have an anonymous handbag that happens to contain all your camera gear.

You are and you aren't mistaken.

The fungus itself is microscopic and invisible to the naked eye; the spider-web-like patterns that you *can* see aren't fungus, but rather the secretions of the fungus. UV light will kill the fungus but it won't remove the secretions - to get rid of them you have to strip the lens and clean it (although I'd avoid the chemicals that some recommend as they'll take the coatings off too). If I have a lens where the secretions aren't making an impact on image quality then I'm quite happy to just kill the fungus and not bother with the cleaning part - unless it's got really bad there's a fair chance you'll do more harm than good.

Don't let them put you off. I haven't tried the tin foil technique but I will the next time I get an infested lens. A few weeks sat on a windowsill has always dealt with the problem in the past, by using UV lamps you'll just be speeding up the process. Even if the glass absorbs *most* UV-C it stands to reason that *some* (enough) must get through...

I don't see why not - any source of UV should do the trick. I use window sills because the Sun's the only source I have to hand.

I cleaned the screen on my MX with lighter fluid on a cotton bud (very gently) then left it to air dry (lighter fluid leaves no residue). Worked for me

I just remembered a suggestion I read somewhere in the week; to speed up the UV saturation cover one end of a lens (finder in this case) in tin foil and leave the other end exposed to the Sun - the UV light will bounce off the foil and reflect back so concentrating the exposure. Not tried that myself yet but sounds plausible in theory.

Exposure to UV light will generally kill fungus (easier said than done in this country, but maybe take it with you on your next exotic jaunt ). Of course that won't get rid of the etching left by the infection - for that you'll need to get cleaning and that means getting inside.

Can it be done? Of course it can! If Pentax put it together then you can take it apart again...

Like this?

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/Pentax%20110/IMGP4098.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/Pentax%20110/IMGP4101.jpg[/IMG]

Hi and welcome to the forum