To retain all the functions that your camera has built in you need a flash that is capable of "P-TTL" operation. Pentax currently offer two models; the AF360FGZ and the AF540FGZ, both of which are very good but neither of which are cheap right now (the one you saw in Currys was no doubt the 360 at around the £200-mark).

You can also find the same two flashes wearing Samsung badges (the SEF-36PFZ and SEF-54PFZ) which are harder to find but are often slightly cheaper than the Pentax-badged versions. Other than the markings they are identical in every way to the Pentax versions and quite suitable for your camera.

You can also buy third-party P-TTL flashguns from Metz and Sigma. Metz have the following models: 36 AF-4, 48 AF-1, 54 MZ-4i and 58 AF-1. Sigma produce just two, the EF-530 DG ST and the EF-530 DG Super.

Be careful if you decide to purchase one of the third-party models as they are also available to suit the flash protocols of Nikon, Canon, Olympus, etc so make sure you buy the Pentax-specific version!

Like everything else in life you get what you pay for and the cheaper flashguns may be missing some features that you want to use at some time in the future (as your photography takes off). I have the Pentax AF360FGZ (like the one you saw in Currys) and I'd thoroughly recommend it (or it's Samsung SEF-36PFZ clone) as a well-featured midrange flash, if your budget doesn't quite stretch that far though then the Metz 48 AF-1 is held in high regard around here too.

Happy shopping!

Cameras running the original (V1.0) firmware don't have wireless flash capability or the ability to focus SDM lenses (the DA*'s and the DA17-70).

Cameras running v1.1 firmware can operate slave (P-TTL) flashes wirelessly but still can't focus SDM lenses.

Cameras running v1.3 firmare (the last version issued) can do everything.

Was there any specific information you were after?

I think the most commonly used "secret" feature of the K10D is changing the ISO by holding the "OK" button and turning the front control wheel. Holding "OK" and the Green Button together sets ISO to auto.

The wireless flash functions aren't mentioned in the manual as they were introduced with a firmware update (v1.1?) so didn't exist when the manual was written. Ditto the SDM lens functions which came in with firmware v1.3.

K10D's also have a hidden "Debug" Menu which is intended for Pentax Technicians only but which can be reached via hacking. You'd only use this if there was a front/back focus issue though as there's nothing in there you'd want on a regular basis.

No others spring to mind - the manual is quite comprehensive, just not particularly well written or easy to understand at times...

It's called a remote shutter cord - eBay is awash with them for very little money (this is the first one I came across but just search for "Pentax remote" and you'll find hundreds).

Any remote with a 2.5mm jack will do - you'll find many more being advertised for Canon as their cameras also use a 2.5mm jack meaning the remotes are completely interchangeable.

Well you learn something new every day!

I've come across such lines many, many times but I never knew there was an actual name for them - thanks for that Matt!

Hello rolart.

There are rumours that the 645D may be with us by next Spring, but then we've heard similar rumours before and we're still waiting...

Regarding the 20mm Flektogon; it's one of the few M42 lenses that hasn't passed through my hands at some point! I buy a lot of photographic job lots at local auctions, keep the bits I want and put the rest on eBay. I've had 6 Flektogon 35's, 4 Pancolar 50's, a dozen or more Sonnar 135's and over 20 Tessar 50's come and go (I've just kept the best example of each for myself) - my eyes are always peeled for a Flektogon 20 (and a Pancolar 80) but I'm not prepared to pay eBay prices for one so I'll keep on waiting.

All the CZJ lenses are good performers optically in my opinion, the Sonnar 135 being probably my favourite M42 lens of all those I've tried (across all brands). The Flektogon 35 is a great lens so I've no reason to think the 20mm version would be any different. One thing to watch for with all of these (other than the obvious scratches / fungus / stuck iris / etc) are the "electric" versions - I find the contacts that protrude from the rear can get stuck on the protruding parts of the Pentax mount (the AF screw and the bayonet lock) making mounting and dismounting quite tricky, better to stick to the regular "automatic" versions if you can.

Hope that helps!

I scored 69!

And I can't see the second of Stefan's pictures so I probably have Deuteranopia then. That's a bugger, I'm sure I was healthy when I woke up this morning...

Not in depth by the look of it

...and we'd be funded by Hoya. Even the first two letter are the same! It's an omen I tell ye!

Before you try anything else...

Hold it under a hairdryer for a couple of minutes and let it get hot to the touch, then just turn the focus ring back and forward a few times to loosen it up - that will often do the trick and requires *no* skills whatsoever (other than the ability not to drop a hot lump of metal and glass - I use an oven glove to get round that bit).