Short answer; no.

A filter won't help as it will add an extra glass surface for light to flare off, hence it'll only tend to make things worse.

A lens hood, on the other hand, will do wonders for flare by stopping light reflections striking the lens in the first place.

In summary: Buy a good hood and don't point your lens directly at your light source (the Sun usually) and you'll be fine.

The ambitious young redhead from Accounts had cornered Mr Green at the lighters' Christmas party and was using her wiles to press for a large raise...

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/competition%20stuff/IMGP3123.jpg[/IMG]

K10D | DA35 | ISO100 | 1/125sec | f/8 | Off camera flash

Taken late on 22 December 2009

I'd like (but doubt I'll see) a retrospective firmware upgrade for all Pentax DSLR's allowing you to switch off the P-TTL and set the pop-up flash's output manually (even if it's just 1/64, 1/4 and 1/1).

What I think I'll see is:

645D + 3/4/5 DA645 lenses.
K20/200D replacement to sit between K-x and K-7.
Weather sealed DA12-24 cosmetic update.
Weather sealed DA55-300 cosmetic update.

Wonder if I'm close

The rating shows (on a simplified level) how much charge the batteries hold - in other words how long they'll keep going before you need to top them up again.

Think of the mAh rating as being like the litre is to liquids - so a battery with 500mAh is a can of Coke, 1000mAh like a 1l bottle, 2000mAh a 2l bottle, etc (a poor analogy but you get the gist).

So a battery with a rating of 2100mAh will last longer between charges than one rated at 1500mAh but not as long as one rated 2800mAh. Of course the downside of a larger capacity is that it then takes longer to recharge as there's more to put back.

Like all things in life the figures are a bit of a compromise, but I'd imagine that 2100mAh batteries are quite sufficient for most people.

Using my Voodoo skills to bring a dead (well, completely jammed up) Super Ikonta IV back to life and doing such a good job that it's now my go-to film camera (and I'm slowly drowning in bills for 120 film d&p)

Finding a near-mint original production CZJ Werra (less than 1,000 made) with matching green ERC (far rarer than hen's teeth), strap and accessories at a car boot sale - then haggling the price down to £3!!!

Buying the DA35 Limited for the K10D. I think it's now welded itself permanently to the front of the camera and I can't remember how I got by without it...

Some of those old brass lenses are incredibly sharp (I've tried a couple out on mine) but the contrast tends to be very low. Plus having to cart the bellows around just to focus is certainly a pain 'tis true...

Hello stranger

I love the funky angle on this picture - looks like it was taken in the middle of an earthquake! Lots of really nice tones in the masonry too - well spotted.

These are very good lenses, a copy of the pre-war Contax Sonnar 135/4. I have one in M42 mount but never seen one with a K-mount before. Good luck with the sale

Tried it on the K20 yet? Any pics to show?

Nice little family portrait there Clarky - keeping your eye out for an 85mm to plug that gap by chance?