All Forum Comments
Comment by George Lazarette posted on Batteries for the *ist-D SLR at 11/06/2004 - 12:57
Hi Chris,
You got RTFM pretty much right!
If you're competent in Elements, then you're more than half way there. It's the computer bit that represents the biggest learning curve for many people, unless they were already doing it.
Check that you have the latest firmware (1.11). If not, here's where to go
http://www.pentaxusa.com/products/cameras/istd_fw111/istd_fw_111.htm
Some suggestions:
Steer clear of flash photography to start with.
Use high capacity NiMH batteries.
Stick to high quality large JPG mode to keep things simple until you've mastered the camera. 256MB cards are adequate until you start shooting RAW.
Experiment with different white balance settings. Indoors, I prefer to set WB manually, using a piece of white paper with a small amount of blue on it to give a slightly warmer result.
You may prefer to set the contrast, sharpness and saturation settings to max. When you're confident with the camera, go back to normal.
Set file number to serial.
In the custom functions, set "AF with press halfway" to ON, and (using the ring surrounding the OK button on the camera back) set focus to centre. Then, if the focus point is not in the centre, point the camera at it, press shutter halfway to focus, then, while holding the shutter pressed, frame the pic. I find that much easier than setting focus points, but others may have different views.
The camera has one or two niggles, but overall I think it is great, and well worth the effort of getting to know properly.
George
You got RTFM pretty much right!
If you're competent in Elements, then you're more than half way there. It's the computer bit that represents the biggest learning curve for many people, unless they were already doing it.
Check that you have the latest firmware (1.11). If not, here's where to go
http://www.pentaxusa.com/products/cameras/istd_fw111/istd_fw_111.htm
Some suggestions:
Steer clear of flash photography to start with.
Use high capacity NiMH batteries.
Stick to high quality large JPG mode to keep things simple until you've mastered the camera. 256MB cards are adequate until you start shooting RAW.
Experiment with different white balance settings. Indoors, I prefer to set WB manually, using a piece of white paper with a small amount of blue on it to give a slightly warmer result.
You may prefer to set the contrast, sharpness and saturation settings to max. When you're confident with the camera, go back to normal.
Set file number to serial.
In the custom functions, set "AF with press halfway" to ON, and (using the ring surrounding the OK button on the camera back) set focus to centre. Then, if the focus point is not in the centre, point the camera at it, press shutter halfway to focus, then, while holding the shutter pressed, frame the pic. I find that much easier than setting focus points, but others may have different views.
The camera has one or two niggles, but overall I think it is great, and well worth the effort of getting to know properly.
George
Comment by George Lazarette posted on Any Trouble with your lenses? at 12/06/2004 - 12:04
Chris,
You have bought a very complex and sophisticated piece of kit. It is capable of superb results if used properly, but you are going to have to do some work.
First, RTFM!
Second, learn how to manipulate digital images. That means cropping, and adjusting colours, contrast, saturation, gamma and sharpness (for starters). I'll come back to this. It's not too hard.
Third, experiment, experiment, experiment. It's free, with digital!
Fourth, treat with caution what salesmen tell you in shops. Some are experts, but many know little more than you. New Pentax lenses are great, but most old ones will give very good results too. And most of them are much cheaper.
Coming back to number 2. There is a free program called Irfanview which will let you do the basics I mentioned. If you have no clue about digital imaging, start with that. When you outgrow it, move on to something else. http://www.irfanview.com/
You did not buy a point and shoot camera, and you can't expect point and shoot convenience. To get the best from a digital SLR you need to know quite a lot, and if you don't have the time or inclination to acquire this knowledge, then sell the camera.
One point to remember about sharpness. Pictures taken with the *ist D are a bit soft straight out of the camera. Pentax EXPECT you to sharpen the picture afterwards on the computer. The reason is that they want to leave you in control. Some manufacturers sharpen the picture in the camera, but there is a trade-off. The more you sharpen a picture, the more you degrade it in other ways. With Pentax, you choose the balance you want.
I can assure you that those who have taken the trouble to learn how to use the *ist D are more than happy with the results.
Good luck.
You have bought a very complex and sophisticated piece of kit. It is capable of superb results if used properly, but you are going to have to do some work.
First, RTFM!
Second, learn how to manipulate digital images. That means cropping, and adjusting colours, contrast, saturation, gamma and sharpness (for starters). I'll come back to this. It's not too hard.
Third, experiment, experiment, experiment. It's free, with digital!
Fourth, treat with caution what salesmen tell you in shops. Some are experts, but many know little more than you. New Pentax lenses are great, but most old ones will give very good results too. And most of them are much cheaper.
Coming back to number 2. There is a free program called Irfanview which will let you do the basics I mentioned. If you have no clue about digital imaging, start with that. When you outgrow it, move on to something else. http://www.irfanview.com/
You did not buy a point and shoot camera, and you can't expect point and shoot convenience. To get the best from a digital SLR you need to know quite a lot, and if you don't have the time or inclination to acquire this knowledge, then sell the camera.
One point to remember about sharpness. Pictures taken with the *ist D are a bit soft straight out of the camera. Pentax EXPECT you to sharpen the picture afterwards on the computer. The reason is that they want to leave you in control. Some manufacturers sharpen the picture in the camera, but there is a trade-off. The more you sharpen a picture, the more you degrade it in other ways. With Pentax, you choose the balance you want.
I can assure you that those who have taken the trouble to learn how to use the *ist D are more than happy with the results.
Good luck.
Comment by George Lazarette posted on Any Trouble with your lenses? at 11/06/2004 - 12:50
Let us know the outcome.
Comment by George Lazarette posted on major fault with *ist D at 07/06/2004 - 15:18
I haven't heard of this problem before, but it doesn't sound good. However, do experiment with the white balance and exposure controls before taking it back. It's possible you are using some incorrect settings, including a manual white balance that is totally wrong.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Comment by George Lazarette posted on major fault with *ist D at 07/06/2004 - 01:29
A low battery is a possible culprit.
Comment by George Lazarette posted on S4 - camera wont turn on at 07/06/2004 - 01:32
I'm not a great fan of Acrobat (or Reader, as they seem to call it now), which gets more bloated with every release, but it is probably a better bet than Word, which is expensive and far from universal. At least Reader is free. And you can certainly print every page in one go.
Comment by George Lazarette posted on PentaxManuals at 02/06/2004 - 00:04
I've no idea what the actual figures are, but I would expect that a majority of those who would be interested in this either have broadband (or access to it) or fixed rate dial-up, so that in the last case a large download might take time, but would not necessarily be expensive.
My feeling, therefore, since the aim of the exercise is to improve quality, is that you should go for the larger file size. Those for whom this is impracticable can still use the Pentax site.
Good idea, by the way, and very public-spirited.
My feeling, therefore, since the aim of the exercise is to improve quality, is that you should go for the larger file size. Those for whom this is impracticable can still use the Pentax site.
Good idea, by the way, and very public-spirited.
Comment by George Lazarette posted on PentaxManuals at 01/06/2004 - 22:59
I don't think the shadow problem is specific to the flash model (or camera); you will experience the same result with any flash/camera combination.
You will always get a bit of shadow unless you use a big softbox (not practicable on a 500FTZ!).
What you need to do is experiment, and of course that is far easier with a digital. If you can find a secondhand digital with a hot shoe that would be great.
If not, then you'll just have to burn some film. Try different zoom settings (less power, better diffusion, on wide-angle setting), different bounce reflectors (walls, ceilings, mirrors, whatever - the greater the distance the greater the diffusion, but the less power). Try a silk handkerchief over the flash. Try a Stofen diffuser (if there is one to fit the 500). Try a Lumiquest diffuser.
If all these fail, don't spend millions on expensive flash units. Use one or two cheap no-name flashguns with slave triggers pointing either at the background, or bouncing, or direct with a diffuser.
Lighting is a complex subject, and there is endless opportunity for experimentation. At the end of the day, however, the best results come from proper studio kit, and if studio work is what appeals to you, flog the 500 and invest in two second-hand studio flash units with softboxes.
And, if you have a controlled environment, and a flash meter (or digicam), forget program settings and use manual. Cameras aren't quite as smart as they think they are, especially when it come to flash.
And finally, two (or more) light sources are (almost always) better than one.
You will always get a bit of shadow unless you use a big softbox (not practicable on a 500FTZ!).
What you need to do is experiment, and of course that is far easier with a digital. If you can find a secondhand digital with a hot shoe that would be great.
If not, then you'll just have to burn some film. Try different zoom settings (less power, better diffusion, on wide-angle setting), different bounce reflectors (walls, ceilings, mirrors, whatever - the greater the distance the greater the diffusion, but the less power). Try a silk handkerchief over the flash. Try a Stofen diffuser (if there is one to fit the 500). Try a Lumiquest diffuser.
If all these fail, don't spend millions on expensive flash units. Use one or two cheap no-name flashguns with slave triggers pointing either at the background, or bouncing, or direct with a diffuser.
Lighting is a complex subject, and there is endless opportunity for experimentation. At the end of the day, however, the best results come from proper studio kit, and if studio work is what appeals to you, flog the 500 and invest in two second-hand studio flash units with softboxes.
And, if you have a controlled environment, and a flash meter (or digicam), forget program settings and use manual. Cameras aren't quite as smart as they think they are, especially when it come to flash.
And finally, two (or more) light sources are (almost always) better than one.
Comment by George Lazarette posted on af500ftz bounce flash shadow at 02/06/2004 - 20:59
Two essential sites for you:
http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/
http://stans-photography.info/
The only (35mm) Pentax bayonet lenses that won't work with the camera are Pentax-DA. They'll fit, but the image circle won't cover the frame.
Regards
http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/
http://stans-photography.info/
The only (35mm) Pentax bayonet lenses that won't work with the camera are Pentax-DA. They'll fit, but the image circle won't cover the frame.
Regards
Comment by George Lazarette posted on Pentax SF-7 at 24/05/2004 - 15:27
Because of the high capacity, NiMHs can take a while to charge. You might find that two chargers are a good investment.
Incidentally, the prices at 7 Day are often good, but not always. I was surprised, having just bought a 256MB card from them to find that my local camera shop had a 512MB for very little more money.