Remember the old saying: "There ain't no such thing as a bad macro lens".

Look out for an old manual-focus lens from Pentax or Ricoh or Tamron (especially) and you should be OK.

G

You're quite right that the 240 does not do a pre-flash.

As I don't have a K100D, I can't comment on what is happening with Terry's camera. When I contradicted Terry, I meant that the K100D can't do wireless flash. What is actually happening, I don't know, but judging by his pictures it seems to work.

I have just tried using the RTF (retractable flash) on my K10D to trigger an AF-500FTZ. At normal flash sync speed it doesn't work, but at 1/50 it does. So perhaps Terry is using a slow shutter speed.

G

Nobody is being pedantic. "Wireless" is not my term, it is Pentax's, and it has a precise meaning.

But you are quite right to say that you can trigger the 360's light sensor with the K100D's pop-up flash. I do the same with my K10D and two remote AF-500FTZs, although I use an AF-240Z on the camera, pointing vertically, rather than use the pop-up.

Works more reliably than P-TTL.

G

Terry,

I think the point here is that your set-up is not wireless flash, which is the subject of this thread.

Wireless flash means that there is communication between the camera and the remote flash in order to ensure correct exposure.

As stated, wireless flash works on the better Pentax DSLRs using the camera's pop-up flash unit and a remote 360 or 540.

What you are talking about is simple slave flash, which is very different. As you say, you have to use trial and error to obtain exposure, which is not exactly 21st Century.

There is no need for you to use an expensive 360, because you could achieve the same effect by using a cheap manual flash attached to a light sensor - obtainable on Ebay for a couple of quid.

G

Not on the K100D, Terry.

G

Wireless flash is only useful in a dynamic situation, where the lighting conditions are changing (because the subject is not stuck in one place). If the subject is stationary, then manual is the way to go, with a small triggering flash on camera, and two or more slaves with sensors.

G

Wireless flashes work by sending bursts of light from the camera's own built-in flash unit, or a suitable flashgun mounted on the camera, to a remote flashgun.

Not all cameras can do this with their built-in flash (only the *ist D, K10D, and perhaps some others). You need to have wireless-compatible flashguns (360, 540, etc) as well.

So if your camera is compatible, you just need a wirelss flashgun. If it's not, you need two wireless flashguns, or cables (which is a whole subject in itself).

G

From Ebay:

This wireless trigger is control discreteness for camera to trigger the studio flash synchronously. It's made up of two parts named signal transmitter and receiver. Receiver power type: Battery. The signal transmitter makes use of advanced circuit design and comport. It can transmit wireless signal that is being encoded. It can totally control four different flashes as the picture above showing us.
Notice: Power supply of the signal transmitter: 23A 12V mini-battery (in the transmitter) Power supply of the receiver: two AAA batteries (not included) Max available in distance range: 50M (Open fields, no fraise) The output socket has two size are 6.35mm and 3.5mm

I am beginning to understand your confusion!

G

Why do you need all this information? You will have to buy a transmitter for the camera and a receiver for each flash, and presumably you will get them together so you will know they are compatible.

The only question you might want to ask is what range they have.

What was the problem with the ones you bought before?

G

If studio distance will do, then cheap sensors mounted on cheap flashguns would be the cheapest option. You'll probably need a cheap flashgun on the camera to do the triggering.

If not, and you want something that works at long distances, then you are probably talking big money. However, I have heard that people have been able to use cable at 100 ft or even more.

If cost is the issue, then a hotshoe-mounted pc adapter attached to a long wire attached to a flashgun with a pc socket might work. The wired camera can trigger the other flashes using cheap sensors like this:

http://tinyurl.com/24jm7h

G