Damm I'm gonna have to type quicker

ND grad filters can be a little expensive, you could try and get hold of a very lightly tinged graduated sunset filter though this will obviously colour the image and may turn a glorious sunset into scene from mars

whichever you go for you'll need a filter holder and adaptor rings to suit the lens your using. have a quick look here for some ideas;

http://www.cokin.co.uk/pages/main.htm

you'll probably need P series.

Alternatively shoot RAW and aim for an in-between exposure, then adjust forground and sky and save as seperate files for merging in photoshop

The Bigma has a two position lock on the barrel, one is to lock the lens and prevent creeping I assume the other (marked "Conv" is to also prevent the rear element colliding with a converter, dont know if this applies to both the X2 and X1.4 tho'
Best bet would be to check the rearmost position of the rear element before fitting any lens to any brand TC

I remember buying a X3 converter for my Om30 for the Solar Eclipse, my 35mm lens had a protruding "flange" on the mount to prevent it been fitted to a converter due to its pronounced rear element.
Why cant Pentax do that?

I use a cheap Epson Stylus R300 with a brand X continous ink system utilising "Signal" inks. Purchased ready instaled at a Computer Market in Manchester

The prints stand up well to scrutiny in Camera Club competitions, alongside those of fellow members who I know use genuine branded inks.

OK, to be fair they may not have the longevity but I can always run another print off

I generally print on Epson Premium Photo Glossy but have used them with cheap papers as well (also from Computer Market)

If I need a print to last I can always get it done at a lab, but I fail to see the point in spending hundreds of pounds on a printer and genuine inks for the (assumed) slightly better quality I would get.

PS; I have had a panoramic up on the wall, in a very brightly lit location and it is only just begining to show signs of fading after 18months, that was using the Signal ink and brand X paper.

Er, that last shot! aren't you supposed to throw confetti

I'm with the first two replies, the first one has no interest in the bottom of the frame, IMHO it needs cropping

Second one I like, where is it :

Welcome to the forum Mike

If your happy with the Ds you'd be ecstatic with a K10D, I use my Pentax 80-320 on the K10D and get sharp images as low as 1/125th sec handheld, someone with steadier hands could probably do better.

As for cropping, I have cropped images up to 1/3rd original and they still yield good A4 prints

I'll second Mike, I have used my Bigma on a monopod with the SR on, as for a beanbag I assume it will be as equally effective, unless your going to position the camera on the beanbag and use a remote release, in which case turn the SR off.

benjikan
Forum veteran
Fashion Photographer
And stirrer of Hornets Nests

Keep up the good work mate

PS; sorry for coming in so late on the thread, just got back from sunny Fuerteventura

I bought the Velbon CF630, it seems solid enough for my Bigma but the problem is the head, the basic head that came with it is OK but its the top plate that lets it down, far too much play to hold the Bigma securely. I tried a Benbo ball and socket from my monopod and that was much better, any sturdy tripod plus above average quality B&S head should suffice, unless your shooting in strong winds in which case I would reccomend you go for the 1/4 tonne concrete block available in kit form from at all good builders merchants

One other tip, placing a heavy beanbag on top of the lens will help reduce vibration of the mirror.

QUick Edit.....just had a thought, some heavier duty tripods have a larger thread for mounting the head, some are reversable offering both options while some I believe need an adaptor.