The K10D is 10Mp, which I find more than good enough for A3+. That's as large as my printer goes so I can't comment on how much larger you can go before you encounter pixellation.

Depends on your print size, I suppose, but I would go for a sturdy tripod over more Mp any day!

Sorry but I disagree. The K20D has a CMOS sensor whereas the K10D had a superb CCD.

The K20D's CMOS does better at higher ISOs than the K10D's CCD at higher ISOs, sure, but for sunset landscape, when one is mostly shooting tripod mounted at ISO100, the K10D's CCD is very much the better performer.

Not a stupid question at all.

When you first get the camera, you'll need to go into the camera's set up menus and check 'permit aperture ring' is enabled. It's a set and forget option, so you only need to do it once.

When taking a shot, and assuming you have 'Pentax-M' lenses rather than 'Pentax-A', you press a little green button on the camera to briefly stop down the lens and meter the scene. If you're in Av (Aperture priority) mode the camera will then set the correct shutter speed. If you're in M (Manual mode) it will tell you how many stops you are over or under correct exposure with the shutter speed you've set.

If you have a modern lens, or a Pentax-A lens, you actually set the aperture using a control wheel on the camera. The camera will meter with the lens fully open and calculate the correct shutter speed for when it stops down to capture the image.

I hope that makes some kind of sense. There are many better posts in the depths of the forum which no doubt explain the process more clearly!

Forum sponsor SRS Microsystems have a few K10Ds at £120, with 12 months guarantee. You could find a used 18-55 'kit' lens from £25-30. But the lenses from your ME Super would work very well, if not even better.

It's not the same lens as the Pentax/Tamron/Samsung and I'm afraid there isn't as much love for the Sigma.

Value on these seems very seasonal, more so than on other lenses. Presumably because it's (unfairly) seen as a travel lens.

SRS have a copy of the Pentax version listed on ebay at £329 used. Private sales values seem to range £225-275+ depending on season and condition.

The Tamron and Samsung variants are worth a little less, as I believe you miss out on the ability to utilise in-camera corrections. Perhaps £175-225?

You shouldn't worry too much about a little internal dust. They inhale so much air when they're zoomed out that it's inevitable a particle or two eventually get ingested. All used copies seem to have a little, even SRS's £329-er.

Insert :envy: emoticon here!

Then we'll have to agree to disagree

I maintain that historical cost is an irrelevance to current value. Regardless of whether one is considering straw hats, pork pies, football boots or, indeed, houses or camera lenses.

Let's say you have a shop selling stuff. In stock you have ten of an item you bought at £100, and which you retail at £130 each. One day, perhaps as a result of the weakening Pound, the sole UK stuff importer ups the wholesale price to £150. Are you really going to sell those ten for £1300 total and order ten replacements for £1500? You'd end up with the same stock but £200 down.

Are you sure? The same "Finder Cap" fits both my K-5 and K10D. And also my ME-Super and Super-A (and K-30, before I sold it).

You have to remove the rubber eye piece, then slide in the cap in its place

Part number 31011. (Supplied as standard with the K-5 & K10D, but an optional extra on the K-30).

If they replace stock they sell, they have to do so at the prevailing wholsesale price.

So, it can be argued that, the cost to them is not be what they paid but what it costs to restock.

And if the increase is greater than their margin, they'd actually be losing money on every item of existing stock they sold if they did so at the old retail price .

As an example. Would you sell your house at a price based on what you paid for it in 1990? Or what it would cost you to buy a similar one today?