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clouded over for me, started out clear, no meteors, lots of misquitos... got cloudier and then rained all night.
Comment by Don posted on Meteor Shower at 13/08/2010 - 16:07
I use lenshoods often, but I also shade the lens with my hand/hat/greycard whenever a hood isn't handy....
Comment by Don posted on How useful are.... at 12/08/2010 - 22:03
a couple tips for meteors...
don't rule out wide to moderate tele's.....
if you aren't shooting with a telescope, don't fret it... little white streaks against black sky is of little visual appeal to anybody but an astronomer, and they got better lenses for this that you do anyways...
SHOOT SOME VIDEO, your d-slrs big sensor and fast glass will produce amazing results for this type of event...
shoot at dusk when there's still some residual daylight...
shoot out in the country, where the lightscatter from the city lights won't overpower your view...
find something interesting for the foreground, bridges, rock formations, barns or landscapes, etc...
get the foreground and the sky....
start at f8 and bracket your shutterspeeds.....
Anybody else feel free to post tips!
don't rule out wide to moderate tele's.....
if you aren't shooting with a telescope, don't fret it... little white streaks against black sky is of little visual appeal to anybody but an astronomer, and they got better lenses for this that you do anyways...
SHOOT SOME VIDEO, your d-slrs big sensor and fast glass will produce amazing results for this type of event...
shoot at dusk when there's still some residual daylight...
shoot out in the country, where the lightscatter from the city lights won't overpower your view...
find something interesting for the foreground, bridges, rock formations, barns or landscapes, etc...
get the foreground and the sky....
start at f8 and bracket your shutterspeeds.....
Anybody else feel free to post tips!
Comment by Don posted on Meteor Shower at 12/08/2010 - 21:57
None of my Pentax d-slrs (ds2, k10) have that functionality.
Now the canon g series compacts do this.... and do it well.
Now the canon g series compacts do this.... and do it well.
Comment by Don posted on K7 as a web cam at 12/08/2010 - 17:58
I figure, eventually they will come looking for me....
Comment by Don posted on finding and approach a agency to represent me at 12/08/2010 - 01:31
arguing over semantics like 12% or 18% is moot...
that would be a half stop at best, and may explain why photogs were over rating (or was it under rating???) thier slide film in the day.. I used to shoot kodachrome 65 at 50..... and used a kodak 18% grey card or the spot meter in camera...
the point is the rule works and understanding it gives you a reference point when your camera meter might read incorrectly.
that would be a half stop at best, and may explain why photogs were over rating (or was it under rating???) thier slide film in the day.. I used to shoot kodachrome 65 at 50..... and used a kodak 18% grey card or the spot meter in camera...
the point is the rule works and understanding it gives you a reference point when your camera meter might read incorrectly.
Anvh wrote:
Don, it doesn't change the thing that I find it too much to remember and I just don't want to calculate something as variable as exposure, just don't see the use for it.
The full moon with the sunny 16?
How old are you?terje-l wrote:
But, the Sunny 16 is all about getting the feeling about exposure. Nothing contradictory there. It is the starting point from which you adjust according to your requirements.
Yes but do you really need to learn those starting points, it all comes down to judgement no matter how you look at it because the sunny 16 is only an approximation.But, the Sunny 16 is all about getting the feeling about exposure. Nothing contradictory there. It is the starting point from which you adjust according to your requirements.
Don, it doesn't change the thing that I find it too much to remember and I just don't want to calculate something as variable as exposure, just don't see the use for it.
The full moon with the sunny 16?
I'm not that old, but have been taking pro grade photos for at least 25 years.
I learned on a camera (k1000) that had a button cell powering the meter and everything else mechanical.
I used that camera long after they discontinued the batteries for the meter.....
you develope your eye and your judgement and the meter becomes your "verify my judgement" tool, not your "what the h-e-double hockeysticks do I do now? My meter is out, I can't take a picture, might as well put the camera down" crutch.
now I realize in this day and age, if your meter is broken, probably means your digital camera won't fire anyways,but there are times when that meter gets fooled, but your eye and your brain, trained to see it, is still a more reliable meter.
no matter what the marketing dept says, you can have all your 265 segmented honeycomb patterned 3-d with cappuchino fancy pants metering, but at the end of the day, it is just a tool to measure the light and reigister an 18% grey average of the light it sees. Your eye is better, and your brian more sophisticated, but it has to be trained to do the job.
Guess the exposure first, then double check with your meter....
your meter was designed to follow the sunny sixteen rule and produce 18% grey.
your in camera meter was designed to help people who know nothing about photography, get the kinds of results pros were getting BEFORE your meter was ever invented.
Guys that used the sunny sixteen rule were first, handheld meters second.... in camera meters third.
all metering based on the same rules.
When I shoot a wedding, I do 90% on manual, and I'm faster and make fewer errors than machine gunning it on auto......
if it weren't for flash, I wouldn't need a meter...
and even with flash....
I could always use distance and yet another "Rule" to calculate exposure.....
"fix it in post" is code talk and has two meanings:
1)" I f'd up and don't know how to fix it", or "I don't know how to make the shot/missed the shot", in camera and hope to save it it the computer
or
2) the client wants something that is too expensive to shoot in camera and we'll need to FINISH this in the computer.
You ever hear someone say "Fix it in post" on a pro shoot, you should immediately suspect it means example number one.
rparmar wrote:
Has Hamilton city council mandated bolding and upper-case?
Last time I was there, people were pretty loud, admittedly.
People were pretty loud last time I was there as well...Has Hamilton city council mandated bolding and upper-case?
Last time I was there, people were pretty loud, admittedly.
last time I was there, we went bar hopping... the bars in this one area all seemed so close together.. we just walked from one bar to the next...
we walk into this one bar, I says "come on let's go"...
my one buddy says like "Come on we just got here ...seems like a cool place"
Me with my hands covering my backside, as I start backing out towards the door.... " You notice anything strange on the dance floor?"
"yeah everybodies dancing...wait those two dudes are making out out....oh....oh my..... yeah let's get out of here!"
My buddy was usually a little slow, but he ran outa there pretty fast....
Comment by Don posted on Camera and lens hire! (Pentax!) at 11/08/2010 - 03:57
Anvh wrote:
Only when I do have my exposure I'll resort to math to keep the exposure the same at all times when changing settings and when using flash.
The sunny 16 is just too restrictive with all the variables off weather and time to be useful I think, it's not something I would promote you should learn because I believe that getting the feeling about exposure is more important.
You for example also fall back on experience with your first comment when you talked about when it's cloudy.
I'm afraid, Stephan that the issue is you don't understand the sunny sixteen rule...mowog wrote:
You don't have to use f16 all the time, Stefan. It's a standard. A benchmark, from which to calculate.
You're right but with exposure I work full on my experience and intuition which you get when you're working manually because your are more consciousness with your settings.You don't have to use f16 all the time, Stefan. It's a standard. A benchmark, from which to calculate.
Only when I do have my exposure I'll resort to math to keep the exposure the same at all times when changing settings and when using flash.
The sunny 16 is just too restrictive with all the variables off weather and time to be useful I think, it's not something I would promote you should learn because I believe that getting the feeling about exposure is more important.
You for example also fall back on experience with your first comment when you talked about when it's cloudy.
perhaps this will help you see it for what it really is:
sunny sixteen rule DOES in fact account for variables....
heck even for photographing the full moon you need to start with the assumption that the moon is lit with direct sunlight from behind you and start with the sunny sixteen rule to get a proper exposure...
back in the day every roll of film came with a chart like that, even after cameras came with meters...
works fine.