Sorry, David, I'm with Algi on this one - 1024 x 768 is all that my tired old eyes can handle (on a 22" monitor).
Light grey type on a white background is a novice mistake (in HCI terms) and the list of sub-heads if you click on the Forum item on the menu is not only hard to follow, but hard to negotiate.
A triumph of style over function.

Geoff

And, when most people have stopped laughing (except me ) it should be remembered that the metal plate on the Yongnuo that fits into the flash mount on the body, has two corners chamfered off - and these are at the back.
Logically, these should be at the front to assist in mounting the flash, but for some strange oriental reason Yongnuo do it differently.
It is still great value for the money, though.

Geoff

Have you tried putting the camera mode dial to X?

X on my K20 defaults to 1/180th and f8 (with the f8 being variable while the shutter speed is fixed. Switch to M and tth flash will not fire.

Geoff

Steer clear of the Aiptek 600U.
It only works on certain systems, and you have to download the outdated drivers from the German importer.

If you have an Intel Mac (OSX 10.5 or later) or a 32-bit windows system, it could be worth a punt but you would have to download the drivers from the Formosan manufacturer (Waltop).

Remember the old slogan - "You can have it cheap, good, or fast. Pick any one from three."

Geoff

It always puzzles me why nobody ever mentions the P50 in the context of a good film body.

I found the Program-A too fiddly to use, same with the MEII to some extent, and I have had a lot of bodies over the years from S1A and Spottie on up. I still have an MZ50. The body is worthless, right now, but the lens is still good for film and digital alike. yes, there is film in it right now, but whether I will ever expose another frame is open to question.

If QC likes the MZ6 right now, that should be the end of it. If he gets deeper into film and wants another body, then he will have a better idea of what he wants. There is no right and wrong, only the body that each of us gets on best with.

Geoff

Are we to assume that you never print one of the photographs you have taken?

If you do, then your printer is processing the digital image. If you make a change to the default settings on either the camera or the printer, then you are adjusting the processing of an image. Change the paper, and you affect the final rendering of the image again.

If you regard changing the settings on your camera as acceptable, then what you are really saying is that there should be a limit on the amount of processing. Fine, now define that limit precisely.

Geoff

stub wrote:
Oh gosh, mine has adjustable output. Do you think I should send it back?

But joking apart, my YN560II has a range of power settings accessed with the 4-way control button set.

I just have the Yongnuo 560 II, and it works fine on, or off, body (a K20 in my case), and the same with a compact as well.
Reckon the build quality is rather good as well.

Geoff

I gave up on Which several decades ago, for exactly the same reasons.
As it happens, I can remember the Which of the 1950s, when it's reviews were anything but trivial. Then they became a fair guide on what NOT to buy, and when I stopped my subscription they were a sort of consumer comic.

The original idea behind the CA was excellent. Subsequently they gave the impression that they had no-one who actually understood technology beyond the ON-OFF switch, and a Which review came down from several pages to a few short paragraphs.

I do not miss Which at all.

Geoff

For a low-cost option, look at Sigma.
70-210 / f4-5.6 in Pentax KA mount. Yes, it has the A setting.
Screw-drive auto-focus, plus a good sized ring for manual focus.
We are talking about £30 here.
I used one on my MZ50, K100, K200, and then it had an attack of fungus. It went to someone here who just wanted the AF mount.
So I got another one to use with my K20.
The only downside that I am aware of is that the rubber on the zoom and focus rings could be a touch more durable.

Geoff