Hi Chris,

Hope you realise I wasn't having a dig at you, just general pricing in the UK. I know you have been and are very good on pricing.

However, if I was going to Canada on holiday soon, I would be sorely tempted to spend my cash over there, and take the risk of a) nothing going wrong with it and b) customs not clobbering you for tax.

But I'm prone to pessimism in these kinds of things, so would guess that I'd still spend at home (or not spend, as the case may be).

We've wandered off topic somewhat.

Dan

Just checked the CameraStore website - K10D is $1019.95, or £437.75. The grip now comes out at £77.26.

Leaving aside the fact that VAT and P&P would need to be paid to get them over the Atlantic, it is more than a little irksome that the same camera+grip effectively costs 48% more in the UK.

Using your calculations George, you'd be looking at around £675 for camera+grip incl VAT and Shipping. I'm not saying I'd be happy doing that...

Dan

'Kcmadr' posted this here:

"If you know anyone who lives in Canada ...

www.thecamerastore.com in Calgary.

K10D Body - 470 pounds
K10D Grip - 83 pounds
77mm Ltd Black - 310 pounds
Grand total is around 870 pounds for the above at the store."

I'd settle for just the K10D and grip for £553!

I'll keep checking back on your website Chris - www.srsmicrosystems.co.uk , if anyone needed reminding.

Dan

P.S. Nice price on the AF360

Susan said less than £145...

Good to know we've got a friendly, competitive shop - only hear good things about you. Any chance of price-matching the Canadian K10D's?

Dan

Thanks for that Susan!

Does TECNO50 get you 50% off? Worth a try I reckon.

Dan

P.S. Welcome to the board!

Oh well, that's easy then, we'll just look out for someone who may, or may not, be wearing a hat.

Dan

The Focus website says 25th to 28th Feb.

Hopefully, they know what they're talking about.

I think I'd go on the Monday if Pentax were there - if not, doesn't seem worth the trip. Although, I've just notived on the NEC website that that is also when the 'X Factor Live' show is on... Hordes of screaming girls, anyone?

Dan

The sensors in digital cameras are sensitive to IR 'light', but will have some degree of filtering applied to reduce the visible effect of this on the finished image. However, if you use an IR72 filter on your lens (Cokin do one, as do Kood I think), you filter out the visible light and just leave the IR.

It's the same as using IR film, but the exposures tend to be longer as the sensor is less sensitive to it.

You end up with a image in varying shades of red, which you can the convert to greyscale in photoshop.

There was a thread on here about it before, early springtime, I think.

Dan

Neil,

I used a Chinon until I got my istD - did everything I needed of it at the time, but I was never a fan of flash when I used film. Digital has changed all that, as well as giving me a severe case of the macro bug.

I tend to prefer off-camera or diffused-from-above flash when shooting insects and stuff, as I find it gives a more natural looking light, but you do end up with larger apertures than you would with a ringflash so there are obvious trade-offs to be made. Obviously no good for teeth though, unless your patient can open their mouth really wide.

You could try some portraiture with a ringflash, but I'm guessing the shots you normally see using this are with a much more powerful unit. However, upping the ISO might compensate for the lower power of the standard ringflash - worth a go I 'spose.

Dan

P.S. When I said "Of course, lots of shiny white teeth may confuse things", I meant that you could get your exposure right for the average subject, but if you had someone with exceptionally shiny teeth, or happened to get a tooth 'face-on', you may end up with blown-out highlights, in which case you may need to adjust things every now and again, but reference to the histogram/highlights warning should prevent it being a problem. I know George knew what I meant (we always agree*, it's quite spooky sometimes ) but I thought I'd clarify it for anyone that didn't.

* That's not actually true.

Neil,

You'll probably find that the same aperture will give nigh-on perfect exposures every time, once you're into macro territory. I use a manual flash with diffuser, and f/11 is right for me once the magnification is1:2 or greater. So I never worry about exposure checking, I know f/11 will be right.

I'm sure you'd find the same. A few test shots with a willing model, and all future shots can be taken at that aperture.

Of course, lots of shiny white teeth may confuse things, but I'd bet they'd confuse P-TTL too.

Dan