I think you mean P-TTL rather than TTL? Only the earliest Pentax DSLRs used TTL flash, the current ones use P-TTL.

If you want a cheap flash look for a Pentax AF200T. Everything except TTL mode will work, you even get program flash automation if you set the camera to P and the flash to one of the two Auto modes. You can find them for £12 if you're patient, the trigger voltage is safe for digital and the variable power output in manual mode makes them excellent off-camera slave flashes if you buy something better later on.

Well after a quick drop of lighter fluid and a lot of wiggling of the film speed dial it's now only over-exposing by one stop. I will check it again, but I can cope with that by just setting it to 400ASA for 200ASA film and so on. I'm not expecting pinpoint accuracy but something in the vague vicinity of my other bodies would be nice.

This does explain why the roll of Ilford SFX I used in it a few months ago came out a bit overexposed. I tend to shoot IR by metering, adding the filter, then knocking eight stops off the shutter speed to compensate for the filter. If the camera's metering was out of whack the error would have been compounded by the lengthy exposure times this technique produces.

As title really, I checked my KM's meter against a couple of other known good bodies and found it was overexposing by anything between two and three stops. Any ideas? I know the Spotmatic meters tend to regard being within a stop of correct as ok, but I thought the K bodies were a bit more sophisticated?

Weird thing is I've had a few rolls of Ilford HP5 from this with no problems. Some of the frames are amongst the best images I've produced! I just thought I'd check it before using slide film as I realise that is much less tolerant of exposure errors.

I have had a brief look under the shutter speed dial and couldn't see much dirt or corrosion which could cause the problems, the body has presumably spent its entire life in an ERC (it came with one). About the only thing I can think of is that it came with an M42 adapter - could long-term use of this have upset the aperture coupling mechanism somehow?

Bangor

It rained continually and the shopping centre had apparently been built inside-out, leaving you walking around the outside of it in the pouring rain to get from the car park to anything with a cafe!

Ashford International

Cardiff Bay

(under the 1937 rules surface lines are valid for reaching locations off the tube network)

The 50-135mm is probably the best Pentax lens for the job, unless you fancy being brave with something like the 70mm DA Ltd (or 77mm FA Ltd).

I have previously used a 120mm f2.8 for a stage show but as it was a small theatre I ended up flat against the back wall to get the shots I wanted. Fine as it was a case of getting a few publicity shots during rehearsals for a show I was running lighting on, but not really suitable for an actual show with paying audience. Now I'd take the 50-135mm, the 120 was the most suitable lens I owned at the time (and still does wonderful things on my KX).

Never mind the 50/1.2s, I'm having enough trouble hunting for a K 50/1.4!

I have noticed one, just hoping it hasn't sold by the first Monday in November when I'll be able to afford to buy it...

Well, I am increasingly finding BIN to be the only way to get a sanely-priced item!

Note to those adding "best offer": It's for haggling. Rejecting offers out of hand and/or only offering to knock pennies off the price is just silly.

No harm letting it run as an auction though. You might get more than the minimum you're prepared to accept.

My view has always been that sellers should list an item with a starting bid which is the minimum they're prepared to accept for it. Don't mess about with secret reserve prices, tell us what you're after and if it's reasonable someone will pay it.