I also find it intriguing. My Dad still has his K2 with M 50/1.7 and original manual, and is under strict instructions never to sell it even though he has a K7 now.

I recently bought a black Pentax ME which came with original strap, case, lens cap (these usually go walkabout) and manual. In the back of the manual was a slip recording the camera serial number which matches that on the body. I guess it must have come from a house clearance or similar (the seller apparently sells items on behalf of other people), but it'll be used carefully and very much appreciated here.

Certain "Far East" ebay sellers seem to be some of the most grasping ones around, whether this is a cultural thing who knows (but then again we have all the tales of Chinese firms ripping off Western designs with their government's approval...).

I have encountered a seller using shill bidding (then offering you a second chance offer when you spot their game and drop out of the auction - jog on pal, I'd already bought an identical item from someone who played by the rules!) and one who sent rather aggressive messages after granting a refund along the lines of "are you sure you haven't received it? It was sent via airmail on such and such a date...". I don't appreciate being chased and all but called a liar over a £3 item.

As it happened the item turned up the same day, so I did the honest thing and returned the refund. Did I get any response whatsoever? Even an email thanking me for my honesty? Nope!

There are loads of M 135/3.5 lenses about, just find another one from a friendlier seller.

XP2 is still available, I'm not sure whether it comes in 120 format though? Ilford have an excellent website which lists everything they make.

Don't bother with a dealer, they'll offer a frankly derisory sum as they'll want to put a mark-up on it and also need to take account of how long it might sit around before selling.

Dead easy. You need a developing tank, along with developer, stop bath and fixer chemicals. You will also need three containers for the mixed chemicals, measuring cylinders to get the proportions of chemicals to water right, a thermometer, a film squeegee and a pair of film clips to hang it up to dry. You will also need a clock with a second hand to time it all, and possibly a darkroom or changing bag to put the film into the tank (unless you manage to get hold of one of the 120 format Agfa Rondinax tanks which can be loaded in daylight).

That sounds like a lot, but once you have it all to hand and you've read the instructions it's very simple. A proper camera shop should be able to talk you through it. My first roll turned out perfect just from following the instructions to the letter.

I don't bother printing the old way, although I have done it in the past. Instead I scan the negatives then upload or print them.

Not all lenses focus in the same way - some turn the other way to others. I have a couple of old Tokina K mount lenses where you turn the lens in the opposite direction to Pentax ones to focus closer.

My Samyang 85mm came via UPS and arrived next day in the run-up to xmas. The (n)ever ready case for my KX dispatched at the same time via Royal Fail is still unaccounted for...

I read some interesting advice in a copy of "The Asahi Pentax Way" of a vaguely related nature. They advocated that if shooting a landscape you set the lens with the infinity position aligned with the DOF mark for the aperture you're using, as opposed to just setting the lens to infinity. The rationale was that doing this means you're in focus from infinity to a much closer distance.

Most wider angle Pentax lenses (28mm and the Super Takumar 35mm) have orange numbers. Line these up and it becomes a panfocal lens where everything is in focus from infinity to a closer distance.

Let us know how you find it. I've been sorely tempted by one myself as Ilford HP5 is also available in 120 (and I can process that at home).

As others have said, they are useful for flattening reflections. I've used one indoors for a photo of a lens before now as it stopped the lighting bouncing back from the glass.