Given the choice, I'd rather be wrong, for various good reasons, not be a nitwit, and learn from experience, than be right and a nitwit.

I don't do "higher process of organisation".

If I had to mess about renaming folders every time I pulled pictures off the camera, I'd go insane.

Surely Adobe PhotoDownloader isn't the only app that creates dated folders as it scoops the files off the card?

How do you go about doing that?

If you do, I think you'll be on a hiding to nothing.

The wording in the K10D manual is much the same (although the default is 'std').

The thing is, it doesn't say anything about how the xxx is generated, so it may be that it's by design - you can't tell from the manual.

The way I achieve dated folders is to use the standard folder name in the camera, and Adobe PhotoDownloader (it came with Elements IIRC) to do the upload.

It just creates dated folders, and you can specify whether you want it to be the shot date or the upload date. Sometimes, like Matt, I suffix the folder name with a description, but mostly I don't bother.

Much simpler than any kind of fiddling with folder names in the camera IMO.

The camera cannot detect the aperture you've set the lens to; nor can it set the lens' aperture for any pre-A lenses.

You'll have to set the camera to manual, and the lens to whatever aperture you want, and then press the green button. It will stop the lens down to your selected aperture, and then set the shutter speed based on metering it does while the lens is stopped down.

If the GX-10 is the same as the K10D in this regard, there will be exposure errors with this approach. Search on "stop down metering" for many discussions here on this topic.

Failing that, you can meter wide open, and calculate the exposure yourself at your selected aperture.

Be aware that in Av mode, it appears to work, but in fact the lens remains wide open for both metering and the exposure, regardless what you set the aperture to.

There are notes in the K10D manual about this (although not the exposure errors); the GX10 manual is probably much the same.

Not sure you'd post-process many pictures in a lifetime with one of those, though.

I think people have short memories. And it's because we take so much for granted. Try uploading even a small picture using a dial-up modem, and it'll soon come flooding back.

[quote="JR"]
The viewfinder is so bright it would amaze you, because it is an aerial image that cannot be focused. Only the centre of the viewfinder is a ground glass and this is where you must carefully focus.
[/quote]So 50ms to release the shutter, but several seconds to focus, hoping that the subject remains on the central ground glass bit and doesn't move.

This is why I said earlier that the actual shutter lag time is meaningless in terms of all the other stuff that has to happen.

Absolutely, but it's nothing compared with the accuracy of the really good clockwork watches.

Old-style engineering and science were truly mind-boggling, and the people that did it all equally so.

It is interesting, but it's a consequence of the fact that there is enormously more for the camera to do between...

In particular, it's got to:

- meter
- focus
- measure the current shake level (if you've got SR on)

It never had to in the day when you'd already done the metering and focusing manually, so the only delay was in the actual release mechanism.

Or is that 70ms in MF, M, and (obviously with the D700) no SR?

Even so, I bet the camera still has stuff to think about when you press the button.

1.4m for the 55-300.

Just bones left, now.

The cheapest option of all would be to have a go with the built-in flash

Don't forget that the duration of the flash is much, much shorter than any shutter speed you can set on the camera.

So you don't need faster shutter speeds than 1/180 - just not too much ambient light.