All Forum Comments
Comment by ChrisA posted on I would Like To.................. at 15/09/2008 - 19:47
thank you, next question is:
I want to get a stofen omnibounce for the AF360FGZ, I have looked it up on Amazon and there are so many there to choose from can anyone tell me the right product code to order?
Google search on: stofen omnibounce AF360
Comment by ChrisA posted on which flash gun to choose? at 12/09/2008 - 10:19
Comment by ChrisA posted on A new site from the PU team at 11/09/2008 - 21:53
1) Add an external gun. The AF360, for example, provides a "Spot Beam" focus for low lighting. It casts a red image onto the target - that's the great red auto focus light (it's on the AF360 & AF540. Might be on the newest smaller flash too...)
Nothing too scientific, but the results were pretty consistent.
Dark ordinary sized living-room, with the 540 set to SB, and the Mark I 18-55 on the front, the red pattern punched out was consistently bright enough for it to get focus lock. It took almost exactly one second each time, and 3 chirrups of the AF drive, before the hexagon came up.
I tried it with the flash on and off camera (either in the hot shoe, or on a bracket, and tied on with a 5P cord), and it was very much less reliable on the bracket - not surprisingly parallax became an issue with the flash further away from the lens axis.
My tentative conclusion is that on camera, for static targets, reasonably close, it's not at all bad.
But I would guess that for moving targets, you can pretty much forget it, and pre-AF with the button on the back would be a lot better.
I'd be interested in how quickly it focuses with the much faster 16-50 (or faster still the FA50 1.4), and the AF-assist beam. Maybe with all that extra light getting in, it's a lot better.
I did try it with the FA28-200, which normally focuses quite quickly in decent light, and that was a lot worse.
Comment by ChrisA posted on Is Pentax is Serious about Digital SLRs? at 11/09/2008 - 17:26
On your camera press: Menu-------->custom functions------->scroll down to option AF with Remote------->set it at on. Than exit menu. This way your camera can focus before tripping the shutter.
That custom setting only refers to an additional AF cycle after you press the remote, but before the shutter opens.
If you leave "AF in remote" off, the shutter will release with the remote, even on AF-S, and even if the subject is not in focus.
Comment by ChrisA posted on Remote Control F Help at 11/09/2008 - 14:34
Does the K10D have an IR sensor on the back?
In 3 sec mode and the red light on the camera is flashing it should flash more quickly when the remote is pressed
Comment by ChrisA posted on Remote Control F Help at 11/09/2008 - 14:25
Does the remote, display a light when the button is pressed?
I don't recall whether mine came with a removable plastic battery protector.
The only thing I can think of to try is set the custom menu so that AFs again before releasing the shutter.
But with mine, it works if it's not set like that, and I focus on something close, and then point the camera at something a different distance away.
Sounds like one or the other is faulty - hopefully it's the remote. I can't see anything you're doing wrong.
One thing I've noticed, maybe not relevant at all, is that setting it in the Custom Menu to AF again before releasing the shutter, only works in AF-S, not AF-C
The shutter still releases remotely though, just without focusing.
Nevertheless (clutching at straws) it might be worth ensuring that the AF/MF switch is set properly.
Comment by ChrisA posted on Remote Control F Help at 11/09/2008 - 14:06
Oh yes K mount manual lens compatible? That amazing green spotted button is great in Hyper Manual. Erm.. but try and take a picture where the aperture needs to be closed down and the smaller the needed aperture the worse the over exposure
It's been well-documented (although not, as you say, in the manual) and discussed here - search for "stop down metering" and you'll find several threads.
I was considering changing focusing screens myself, but in the end decided to get rid of my pre-A lenses - with A-series lenses and beyond, setting the aperture from the body is fine, and all the exposure problems go away.
I do agree with you that strobing the flash for AF-assist is a serious design error - at the sort of events where you'd need it it's usually completely inappropriate.
But Matt's technique at relatively dark events does make a huge difference - I use my K10D quite often at dance events, and with a bit of practice it's not too bad.
Low light AF is an ongoing criticism with Pentax DSLRs, though, it has to be said.
Comment by ChrisA posted on Is Pentax is Serious about Digital SLRs? at 11/09/2008 - 09:40
I do agree wholeheartedly with ChrisA, the Photo Downloader integrated in Photoshop Elements 6/Organizer is a very useful tool.
I only use it for doing the download, though - for previewing I use Picasa. It imports the new folders very quickly - pretty much in real time if you've got it open - and it's quicker to scroll down the list of folders and view the thumbnails than it is to read the folder names.
Picasa 3, which is out now in beta, also lets you view the EXIF for PEF files (well, K10D ones, I don't know about K20D ones), which it didn't before.
Well worth upgrading, if you like Picasa. Evolution, not revolution, but some good steps forward nonetheless.
Comment by ChrisA posted on K20D folders at 10/09/2008 - 21:14
Comment by ChrisA posted on Outback SA at 10/09/2008 - 18:47


Sorry if that sounds like the Spanish Inquisition, but most of us here have a fairly substantial investment in Pentax bodies and lenses, so making brand comparisons is not easy. So it would be great to hear from someone with relatively recent experience of the others.