A series from last fall taken with K-r and 18-55 in Colorado:

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v259/ccd333/1-IMGP7740-001_zps963fb071.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v259/ccd333/1-1-IMGP7642-001_zpsa02ea4cc.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v259/ccd333/1-IMGP7763-001_zps1b14433e.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v259/ccd333/1-1-IMGP7421-001_zps8e78e876.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v259/ccd333/1-Discovery_zps6ed25586.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v259/ccd333/1-1-IMGP7625-001_zps3db8521e.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v259/ccd333/1-IMGP7784-002_zps84652a25.jpg[/IMG]

Fairly sharp for that focal length. And the bokeh is nice.

Warren, that might be the most insightful post about why someone chose Pentax I have ever read. It can be overwhelming when amongst all of the competitive rhetoric bandied about. Sometimes it helps to be reminded.....from someone who is new and sees things objectively.....of the benefits of slower progress when making products. Nicely done!

Couldn't agree more!

If it looks clean in general, that's a good sign. If you didn't notice any large scratches on the LCD, then that bodes well too. One other thing might be the inside.....stores often leave lenses off on DSLR's that are on display (and I assume this price is just for the body?). The sensor might be dirty, but that should clean up if that is the case.

I would say as long as everything else functions well (did you power it up?) and it has the warranty (the store is offering its own in addition to the Pentax warranty?), then that is a decent price and is definitely worth purchasing if you don't want to save up for a new one in the box.

Congratulations!

Yes, get the K-r. Whatever difference you might pay vs the repair on your DL2 is worth it. I upgraded from the DL and am very happy with my K-r.

I have read where some users suggest reducing the in camera contrast setting, but I have not tried that. I do have some clipping from time to time with my K-r (as do many other cameras), but I almost always use full manual mode and adjust the exposure on the fly (similar to what darkskies stated).

You can also use bracketing to provide more choices for exposure without changing anything. And, not only can you use the histogram (also as darkskies suggested) but don't forget about the highlight clipping warning flash after you review a shot on your screen. I find this feature very helpful with making adjustments for a particular scene.

Finally, for particular scenes outdoors where there are large contrast differences (like sun on clouds which is one of the bigger culprits for clipping), you can use a graduated neutral density filter (particularly for early mornings and late evening when those differences between sky and ground are more stark). I prefer using one of those to taking separate exposures and blending because it saves so much time in PP. The other benefit of using a filter is that they work for all cameras.

I think you may have answered your own question. If you're not using the K-x anymore then it might be worth selling it. You might ask yourself what kind of photos you typically take and make your decision accordingly.

However....yes, I carry two (the K-r and the *istDL) and often have the lens setup you described. I definitely use the K-r more, but it's nice to have that extra body with lens ready to go. In one sense, though....that luxury certainly negates the idea of interchangeable lenses on one body. But having versatility and redundancy for an active photographer can pay dividends.....esp. on a long photo trip somewhere.

Andrew, I would stick to John's sequence. If the K-r dust removal is not effective, I would try the blower next. I have had GREAT success using one on my *istDL. Haven't had any problems with my K-r.

Also, assuming (hopefully) you don't have a faulty dust removal feature on your camera (can you feel it shaking?).....I wouldn't stop trying it just because you didn't have success in this situation. Try setting it for activation upon each camera power up. Unless you can't afford the slight lag this will impose on your start up time, I've found it keeps the sensor spot free.