I have the 11mm which has the same issue with its mount. However the Pentaxforums test of the later 45mm has a picture of the mount which shows Irix have now added the missing long slot. Whether Irix are now fitting this updated mount to the earlier lenses I've no idea.

Steve

Back in the day it was easy. The KM went along with a 28, 55 and 135. Finances dictated the choice.

This is close to my heart at the moment as I'm agonising over what to pack for my next holiday.

The Q-S1 goes out with the 02, 06 and 08. But I can also fit the 01, 03 and viewfinder into the system case so they always go along too. It also fits into the bike's handlebar bag.

Like Lennybloke the K-1 can go out with the FA20-35, DFA28-105 and DFA 70-210. However I too find it lacks wow factor. So if I know I'm not going to be out for hours the DFA15-30, DFA24-70 and DFA70-210 is my choice. If I'm just visiting a specific event or location the DFA*70-200 will go along instead. I find the K-1 plays well with the F28 and FA135 so why I don't think to go with these 2 and the DFA*50 in retro style I don't know. Taking a leaf out of Lennybloke's book I think I must try the DFA21, DFA*50 and FA*200 (not macro).

07 Mount Shield lens arrived this morning in excellent condition. Thanks

When my original model Q developed the fault after 20 months it was replaced (by SRS) rather than being repaired. Whether this was due to the difficulty of repairing the camera or just economics I don't know. I've seen replacement circuit boards on eBay but they are in America so along with the shipping and other costs they are very expensive by the time land on the doormat here. I've never tried to disassemble my Q so I can't comment on how easy it would be to change out a board. FWIW my replacement camera still works fine today.

I also have a Q-S1, which is my Q of choice, which also developed the fault after several years. I have learned to live with the fault. I like to geotag my pictures so it is important to me that the camera clock matches my GPS or more recently my watch. So now when I change my battery I just take a picture of my watch or GPS. I then use "Edit Capture Time" in Lightroom to correct all the timestamps for all the pictures taken with that battery using just a couple of clicks. I guess other applications have similar functionality

Steve

The SFX manual says to use a DL233A (34.5mm tall) or a 2CR5 (43mm tall) and to use the inner frame for the shorter DL233A. It seems they dropped support for the DL233A with the Fb grip. However it does suggest the original lithium grip could take the 2CR5. Umm....

Hi,

My 06 stopped focusing towards the end of a cycling holiday in Germany last year. I tried the old chestnut of cleaning the contacts. I used a cotton bud soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Despite them looking clean the bud picked up a lot of dark debris from each contact. I suspect the plastic insulating lands wear and result in deposits on the contact surfaces. Anyway to my surprise and delight focusing was restored and has worked fine since.

I decided to buy a new spare 06 from Japan whilst they were still available. The ability to pack a comprehensive outfit in to the small Q system bag that's easy to carry on the bike makes it far too useful to give up on easily.

I used Crucial to upgrade my iMac to 4x 8Gb several years ago. No issues.

It's basically the same construction as an FA series lens. Comparing mine to my FA28 the body and aperture ring are the same. However the focusing ring is 50% wider and studded rubber. This improves the manual focussing. It feels slightly more damped than the one on the FA28. The barrel is firm and does not wobble.

Steve

Details on Ricoh site here

Steve

I have DA*55 and the SMC-F 50. I prefer the 55 on the K-1. I think the contrast is better and it has the bonus of being weather resistant etc.

I did some tests on the 55 and found I could get a bit of vignetting in the extreme corners with the right aperture and focus distance combination. IIRC it occurred at f1.4 and infinity. Removing the hood removed the problem. I trimmed down a hood and the issue is gone. Basically I removed the rubber bump protector from the front of hood and trimmed off about 6mm. The rear of the rubber bump protector now reaches the start of the conical section of the hood.