Another option is to shoot RAW and then you can push the exposure in post production.

I also use fill in flash (set to slow sync) and that often gives better exposure though I usually do this with a hotshoe mounted flash with a bounce head to soften the light.

I was looking at solid state drives the other day and some quoted 1.2milion hours mean time to failure - that is over 136 years!

I am currently using Verbatim double layer DVD+R in addition to an external hard drive.

Has anyone tried BluRay? How reliable are they?

It's my favourite lens, only problem is I can't get it in my Lowepro Slingshot 100 on the camera! It has to go in separate! Had to get another bag for that!

I also find it better to use in conjunction with the battery grip.

Enjoy!

The Pentax 17 to 70 F4 DA SDM lens looks like it will be a very good option, though it seems it will retail at about £370. Though this will not work with older cameras as it has a PKA3 mount which does not have the connector for the camera driven AF.

The other alternative and highly regarded is the 16-45 f4 and is only £199 (SYS Microsystems). Personally I will be looking at the 17-70 and the 16 -50 DA* SDM (£469 from SRS) and replacements. So far the 16-50 is winning out due to the faster 2.8, the full water and dust sealing and that I will be able to use it on older cameras. Though I am very interested in the 17-70 because of its good focal length range.

I have a similar problem with my work LCD, only this time it is blown hightights! Same rason as Don states - it's not calibrated or balanced for the ambiant light.

Try changing your viewing angle on the work monitor and see what happens!

I have my camera set to -0.3EV to prevent blowing highlights and a simple boost on Shadows and mid tones usually does the job. I just check the histogram and if necessary, adjust EV accordingly.

It is possible to regain some highlight detail but usually only from RAW files where as shadows contain better details, even in JPGs, though it can result in noise.

I also have set my K10D to 1/3 stops for EV (the default is 1/2 stops) as I believe this gave me better control.

The exposure will also depend on the metering mode used.

With challenging exposures such as this I always regret not carrying my Polorisor or ND filter! Often these are required to get the shuter/apature combination you want under this situation.

Spot meter from the trees (background), spot metre from the water and you will likely find a several stop difference - that said, what about combining the two images for background exposure and forgroung exposure using layers and masking?

This bird is black after all! On my screen it looks great with a good range of tones on the feathers, especially the back.

I think the only improvement would have been eye contact.

That is a Mandarin too, I think! Looks like a young male with adult plumage just comming thorugh.

Thanks for the advice, I will give curves another go, it is one of the tools I don't seem to be getting to grips with

I was interested in your comment about not enought D & D, I though the fact it was set in a grave yard implied one of the 'D's !

Great judging - For one, I think it will help push my pictures (especially B&W) forward. I took the image for this comp and I am more inspired to do more B&W as a result - Job done I would say!