I actually stopped reading the article!

The last air show I went to the Tamron 75-300 stayed on the camera the entire time and I set the dial to shutter priority and set 1/200th and SR on. Out of about 125 shots, only about 5 suffered from shake related blurring! The low level ones benefitted from showing movement in the background with the aircraft sharp.

With some of the older aircraft I did find that some of the prop bluring could have been more.

Had my wedding is such a place last year! the DA* 16-50 was a great lens to use. Moving about during the main ceremy was not possible, so view point is key to this, during the signing, photos were easy, but the wide would be essential.

There are some interesting site round hyde Park itself: near marble arch there are a couple of sculptures, one of a horses head and another of a jelly baby family - different and interesting photographic opportunities, and the jelly babies could be fantastic at the right time of day with the sun in the right place! About half way down Park Lane is a full size car (all be it a very small car) with a sculptured hand on top! Saw someone the other day right by it, complete with tripod, taking pictures.

Covent Garden is a great place, the street performers can be good photo opportunities and there is a good pub called the Punch and Judy there .

The south side of the river opposite Westminster it great, it is were the London Eye is located.

Finally, there is a great pub (used to be one of my favourits) close to Suthwalk Cathedral (near London Bridge), also close the the Golden Hinde ship (Close to Clink Street for the Clink Prison) called the Anchor Pub.

Also, you can take photos in Southwark Cathedral, you just been to purchus a permit just inside the main enterance.

I have to say that I have, not with models though, used all the methods above, all have their limitations as the SB will fall off well before the target, the LED light will not increase the contrast on the skin and live view at full zoom is shaky. It is worth noting that live view can be set to use a different focus method, this in combination with live view zoom, might be more in target. This in combination with LED torch could do the trick.

Try Yvon Bourque's Pentax Blog

What about trying with flash sync (x) mode? This is how I operate with my K7.

One point to note with the flash trigger I use, it will only operate at shutter speeds at 180th and below (I think), certainly won't trigger at 200th.

I have just joined, waited for formal notification and I was able to downlod the PDF magazene 2010 issue 4! I am happy! Though the download did take a little longer to open than I expected, it did open and the scan quality is great - thanks PU! I will be downloading some of the back issues prior to 2007 when I joined! I am hoping for a little trip through history!

Darkskies,

I have been through the same dilemma as you, origionally I was looking for the DFA 100, however I spotted the 100 WR in a local Jessops and seeing it and holding it made up my mind, the extra cost would be worth it. It seems more compact then the D-FA 100 and still works on 35mm cameras.

I have not regretted the money, it is built like a limited and really blows me away, it's light comfortable and gets the shot (if I miss, it's not the fault of the lens, it's my technique!).

I had to apply focus adjustment when I first got it as focus was out on my K7 by quite a bit. It also does hunt a little, but manually pre-focussing first cures this. Forget live view focus though, however, I expect this is the same with all macro lens.

I have even coupled this with the Kenro 1.5 adaptor to give me a 150mm F4 macro - a good pairing!

I have the Sigma 18-200, I origionally bought this over the Tamron 18-250 because the Sigma focussed faster. Since owning it for some time, first on a K10D where it did stay on the camera most of the time; it also worked very well with the Kenro 1.5x conveter.

Since getting the K7, it has only been used as a travel lens (when flying only!) as I find that it is just not sharp enough for any other use, took it to Florida with the 16-50DA* for the best of both worlds. Still a very good all round lens, but not really up to the sensor resolution, great for 7x5 prints though.

I have no experiance with the 18-250 or the 18-270!

The file should be a zip, open this on your PC to extract the files, one of the files will be the firmware file, copy this to the root of an SD card, using a card reader attached to your PC.

Ensure your camera battery is fully charged, put this SD card it, turn your camera on while holding the Menu button and the camera will do the rest. There will be no issue jumping from 1.00 to 1.04.