All Forum Comments
Comment by Anvh posted on please help on RAW at 04/04/2009 - 10:42
I saw that you're leaving, too bad to hear that. I've readed the topic where it went wrong just now and you do have your point though. Some of these guys are here for such a long time together, it's more of a friend club and you don't need to take everything serious what they say but they are quite open which I like. Please give them another change okay, they trully aren't bad it just went wrong.
Now going to your new bird photo since I saw something that I like there
Comment by Anvh posted on me and my shadow at 04/04/2009 - 10:18
Here is a good artical about noise link
I've tried to find a comparison with Noise reduction software but this was the onloy thing I could find so fast link
If you read the artical you see he simply use the automatic settings iwht some little adjustments, some software such as Neat Image and noiseaware need a bit more finetuning from the user. You do have more control then others aswell with these software so if you're good you can get better results.
ps. Amin the site of that explains noise also have more technical stuff so here if you want to dig deeper into the basic technologie behind your camera www.cambridgeincolour.com
edit: remove the part about ISO, just wasnt sure enough about the content.
Comment by Anvh posted on DA*300 with Tamron 1.4TC (courtesy of Mike-P) at 04/04/2009 - 09:34
It's hard to compare shots since we don't how many noise reduction the K10D aplies or even if it does aply it at all when shooting in raw?
dpreview have some photos up for the comparison of the noise, if you want to compare that would be the easiest way.
Here are some photos for a quick look and comparison.
K10D iso1600

K20D iso1600, NR off

There are also some graphs on dpreview where you can see that the noise reduction of the K20D only really starts to work at iso 1600.
If you compare the noise of the k10D with the compition you can concluse that the Noise reduction is very weak.
If you look at the photos above you can clearly see the difference in noise, it's not really the amount but more the difference how the noise looks. It's CMOS vs CCD afterall and 14mp vs 10mp, the pixels of the K10D are sharper but overall image the K20D wins. For noise, if we need to believe dpreview, K10D wins also. If you look at the graphs ISO800 of the K10D is cleaner then ISO400 of the K20D without noise reduction.
Even if you set the noise reduction to his strongest it wouldn't help the K20D since it only really starts to work at iso1600.
Since some won't believe with the ISO see for yourself.
K10D iso800

K20D iso400

Don't really look at the face but the blank area next to her or her cheeks, you can see that the K20D doesn't like blank areas. So with bokeh, the smoother areas, you have more visible noise.
The good thing is that almost all noise reduction software have no problem with removing such noise, so with a bit of simple post processing you can easely get a better and cleaner photo with the K20D then with the K10D I believe.
If we look at the photos from Amin you see that most noise is in the bokeh, the birds look sharp without much or any noise most of the time. I hope you all concur with my explaination. I Don't have a K20D but from what I've seen from photos so far I conlcuded this. Please bring in your comments, mine are trully not absolute.
ps. didn't want to make such a story but well here it is
Edit: typos
Comment by Anvh posted on DA*300 with Tamron 1.4TC (courtesy of Mike-P) at 04/04/2009 - 08:54
I might even be lucky enough to borrow a lens from my uncle if he has one.
Comment by Anvh posted on stage, portrait lens, which one? at 04/04/2009 - 05:51
Let me be the first to welcome you to the forum.
You wouldn't have a lot on me though because I'm from the new generation that skip film I'm afraid, pitty right.
That doesn't mean we can't talk though!
Please tell us a bit more about your treasure hunt on Ebay, any big catches?
ps. sorry for all the smilies.
Comment by Anvh posted on Hello, from sunny Vancouver at 04/04/2009 - 05:37
In my personal opinion the photo would be nicer if it would have been more natural.
To be a bit more creative, what do you think if you trun the photo 180 degrees so that the subject is straigth. In my view I think that would strengthen the effect of the shadow more and maybe improve the compisition.
Comment by Anvh posted on me and my shadow at 04/04/2009 - 05:08
A bag on your chest doesn't do it for me, it limits you in your movement.
To at a bit to Bob advice, the gear would be.
The DA40, no excuse not to take it with you.
DFA 100 with 2x tc, my most used lens can't do with out it.
The flashgun.
Then I also have a carbon monopod, I'm not worried about that since there are many option to fit it onto the bag.
And then the small bits, cards batteries etc. also not really something to worry.
My main concern is that the lenses will move in my pack and get damage.
I also want to have a longer lens in the near future for wildlife which would complicate things. Maybe I just need to cut image quality and get the DA 55-300 instead of the longer lens
The lowe packs have two compartments, one top and botom. I could do the sleeping bag in the bottom and do the camera gear above that so that it atleast have some protection. A small camera back might also be an option. Like some said, the balance is important and the camera isn't the lightest thing.
Comment by Anvh posted on Multi-day hiking problem. at 04/04/2009 - 01:23
I've the Z-pro from cokin with 3 GNDs, I wouldn't want to trade them for a fixed horizon that you get with screw-in GNDs.
For the screw in filters a step-down ring like Pete said is a great idea.
You buy a large filter and use rings to make them fit on the lens.
I've being told the 67mm is the best size since it fits half of the DA* lenses and also fits well with a step down ring on the other ones.
Comment by Anvh posted on Filter system vs individuals at 04/04/2009 - 00:58
Using f1.4 or so will help to minimise noise (by enabling lower ISO), but how much would you really want to use an aperture larger than f2.8 anyway?
At 3m it's 20cm, I often use the 100mm f/2.8 wide open at around 6 meters with a dof of ~24cm without a problem.
If you would zoom in with the 50-135 to get an headshot it will be even smaller so how usefull is f/2.8 at 135mm in a indoors?
I'm defending the DA*55 awefully lot now, maybe I should just get it...
Comment by Anvh posted on stage, portrait lens, which one? at 04/04/2009 - 00:42


Version 5 of ACR is only for CS4 so you need to download version 4.6 link