Anvh

Joined: 4th July 2008

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Anvh
Amin,
I think the camera simply gives up an higher value to move the lens, i think they kept the speed low with the K20D to make sure it was accurate.
The voltage and all that hasn't changed.

Have you tried the Electronic level btw?

Comment by Anvh posted on K-7 at SRS on June 6th at 06/06/2009 - 20:08

Anvh
aminstar wrote:
Oh and Stefan, you were right when you said that when I handled the K-7 I would want one . Spot on, you were absolutely right.
I knew it and everyone was saying that the price was too high and me only thinking "you haven't hold it in your hands yet"
Also the price is a advice price most shops (here atleast) mostly go 10% under that.

About the focus
I've dug into it since the Youtube introduction video said something about a secondary focus sensor or something like that.

What they have done is put in a sensor that analyze the light and adjust/calibrate the focus sensor for that. To explain it a bit more, differend colours of light bend differently, focus system bends light in several direction and meters that. What seems Pentax to has done is meter the light that mostly available and use that to focus with. Since the focus sytem now focus only on one bending of the light it can focus fast and mor acurate for that light condition.... I'm not 100% sure about this but what from what I've readed that is my conclusion.
I hope that makes sense some how

Abhout the image quality E-photozine have done some ISO tests
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Pentax-K7-11613

Comment by Anvh posted on K-7 at SRS on June 6th at 06/06/2009 - 19:34

Anvh
2880x900 pixels
brightness 200cd/m²
dynamic contrast 10.000:1
refresh rate 0,02ms.
100% sRGB & 99,3% Adobe RGB 12bit-colourdepth.
energy consumption around 200W.
21kg with dvi-d- & hdmi 1.3 and 4 usb 2.0-ports.
American price $8000 no suggestion that it is coming to the European market.

Comment by Anvh posted on Curved Widescreen at 06/06/2009 - 19:16

Anvh
Well those last photos were a bit small.
You should see that the colours of the bottom photos are more vibrant (more bold).

let me get some bigger ones.
link
link
Here is a read about filters link

I really like the effect the Pol gives so I'm always using it.
With doing macros of flowers the colours are just more brilliant, so atleast for that I would suggest getting a screw-in one because a cokin on a macro isn't really workable in my eyes.

Using a £100 pol filter for protection... simply be careful, the lens is really though on his own and you need to be very unlucky to damage it and then even a filter won't help. In the old days UV filter were mostly use because colours are better then but now they aren't needed with the current coatings.

The shop do both...
I couldn't go today but will go there a monday, sorry about that.
This the site but tnot everything is on it link
You can send them an E-mail, they know me quite well so use my name and mention pentax and cokin z-pro. they probable won't answer this wekend though and I'm really going a monday, since I need the pol filter

Comment by Anvh posted on About filters system at 06/06/2009 - 18:21

Anvh
Thank you for the link Remco.

Max, I've used quickgamma as well. it worked for me though.
You should get your colours 80% correct, with huey and spider that would be 98%
If they weren't that expensive I would get one but don't have the money...

With point five, you should hardly if not any colour difference, between the lines and the blank colour running beside the lines.
Those lines are very fine and if you look past them they appear to be one colour and not lines, if you understand what I mean ^^;
the colour of those combined lines should be the same as the blank colour beside it.

I don't know what you meant hat your eyes hurt... probable you always had your screen to bright. Most TFT screen are to bright, maybe even all the screens.
My is set on a brightness of 38 and contrast 100, but every screen is different and I'm using a CRT.
If I look at this one link
I can see all shades and if that is the case with yours then you have it alright.
With quickgamma you have two contrast lines, the left one should just stop at the top and the left one should end in the middle.

Btw does this also count as calibration?

Comment by Anvh posted on Who calibrates their screen at 06/06/2009 - 17:42

Anvh
max11 wrote:
So with the exception of the f/2.8 for the 50mm?

If I can add a point, I don't know exactly what (or at least all elements) makes a picture a good picture (rather than personal preference), I always liked the pictures that my point-and-shot randomly made with increased DOF (that is why i used to set f/38 when possible!)
but,if I understood the concept, we have to aim to the max sharpness (if we don't want specifically a different result) and then to the max compatible DOF or bokeh.
You will probable see the 50mm approve when comparing f/1.7 & f/2,
f/2 will probable have less aberration (purple fringing), better bokeh and an improved sharpness (mostly in the corners). With f/2.8 it will improve as well but not the jump you may get with f/1.7 to f/2.
This is with most lenses so to my experience, simply try it.

There are many aspects that makes a pleasant photo, it depends a bit on the subject but all the same rules apply to photos no matter what type they are.
Here is a good understandable read link
Just try to apply those with photos you like, you will see that most of them follow those rules. there are always some oddities though

Comment by Anvh posted on newbie question: DOF in landscapes at 06/06/2009 - 17:30

Anvh
Bobbinalorry wrote:

Anvh suggests 28mmf2.8,is this preferable to 28.. f1.8?
Sorry I thought you wrote f/2.8
But I don't believe there is a f/1.8 at least not a Pentax one.

Comment by Anvh posted on lens or flash? please advise at 06/06/2009 - 17:15

Anvh
Ah okay Didn't know that, I had CS2 but Only got serious with it with CS3 so don't know much before that. It's good to know the B&W tool isn't completely flawed.

Most of the time I go over it with curve and level adjustment layer and play with the colour balance right under the B&W adjustment layer... I can pretty much tweak it perfectly. Although I don't do B&W nearly enough to perfect my way of doing... I simply try things ^^;

What i sometimes do is almost the same thing you describe but leave the saturation of the colour layer intact, you can play with the intensity of the colours that way, make them appear brighter or darker.

BTW why are you up so early in the weekend?
I was still awake at that time.

Comment by Anvh posted on Black and White Filters - Digital and Physical at 06/06/2009 - 07:33

Anvh
When I read that I'm wondering why not just use the B&W adjustment layer, am I missing something?

Comment by Anvh posted on Black and White Filters - Digital and Physical at 06/06/2009 - 05:39

Anvh
Very nice photo and the dof is great... don't know the bug though

Comment by Anvh posted on Bug Identification at 06/06/2009 - 00:31

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