I've ordered twice from amazon.co.jp without any problems but they don't send electronics abroad the last time I checked.
My Japanese isn't the best but luckily I know some characters so I can find my way around a website but don't ask me to read or write something

And not to forget they are a limited edition so only 1000 are make I believe.
You could order one from Japan if you want, I was already trying to find out what customized colour edition would cost me to get here.

Yep you got it George, you worded it better then I have

I'm also still in the mist with the Minus 2 bit myself, I see it's better but how that comes?
With minus 2 you should even lower the contrast where as 0 should be the default setting.
All I can think of is that Pentax applies more contrast as a standard to improve standard JPG output so that you get a good image in one go so to say for the user that don't use raw.

So the default is what pentax consider a good contrast and has nothing to do with values.

They should make a RAW profile or something like that, that makes a JPG preview but without any enhancements.

That is one approach to the problem although I've a Canon and I quite like the printer but not their photo paper
So I use Epson paper and I'm planning to get some Ilford for the quality prints.

I like the B&W much more, good decision you did that.

I'm looking to invest some money in some calibration tools.
The thing is when you want to do it then you must do it good right.
That's why the ColorMunki interests me, since I understand I can calibrate my monitor but also my printer with it. Then in combination with the Color Checker needed to calibrate the camera, I should be able to get 98% true colour prints.

ColorMunki photo is € 389,00, the colorchecker € 99,00
Where as the Huey Pro is € 119,00
So all in all the complete package is 4 times as expensive as just the monitor.
Although I can leave away the colorchecker so that it's only 3 times as expensive.

It's quite a lot of money and want some advice on this.
Hopefully someone has a ColorMunki and can tell me more about that.

Thank you for reading.

George did you miss my comment, wasn't understandable or are you simply ignoring me?

The RAW file itself does not have a colour profile so it does not matter what you choose.
The only thing is that aRGB version of the JPG preview that is in the RAW is closer to the real RAW image then sRGB is and there for if you shoot RAW it's better to use aRGB.

Silkypix probable use just like Lightroom, the pro-photo RGB space when converting the RAW data in a workable image.
Pro-photo RGB is even bigger then aRGB and no monitor so far as I know can display all the colours. Those that can not be displayed get downscaled to the nearest-neighbour your monitor can display.

you're correct though to use sRGB when saving in JPG since the colour gradation is better then. You only have an amount of 8 bits for colour and since you have more colours with aRGB the steps between them need to be bigger to cover the full range.

Have a great time in Denmark Martin!
Also have gone to Denmark this year, it's a very quieted beautiful country, enjoy it a lot!

Yes please, would be very helpful.

Martin, then I think we are on one line.
Like you said there will be slight variation so I'm saying in my turn experiment with the values to get it so close as it can for your own system.
You use a K10D if I'm correct, a K7 or any other model might handle the JPG files differently so also that effects the results as well.
So if someone find they get a better comparable histogram with -1 contrast instead of -2 then that might be true for them.
That's all I'm saying.

I'm using a K10D and LR2 and your values seem to be spot on for me so kudos for that.