I mean if they're a white balance filter then it won't have any effect on digital because you can change the white balance.

With film you were set on the white balance of the film so if you had day light and wanted to use it under tungsten then you need to shift the white balance from tungsten to daylight before it hits the film, you use a filter for that.

Here are some of those filters link
This is one halogen light to daylight link

Here is a nice article about artificial light and their colour link

I really don't believe that the Lee filter will work in such a way that you think, it looks like a filter for film to adjust the white balance no need for that on digital.

If I ain't clear enough I'm sure one of the veterans here from the film era can tell you all about them.

Wow what an old post Steve
There is a more recent one with several brands on this forum I however don't have the time to look now.

katzeye are the best with opty bright coating, or else take a look at http://www.focusingscreen.com/

The Ec-B seems to be the best of the types.

That must be a reacting on my post, again.

I believe that if the buffer empties faster that you can make more shots continuously but not that you can shoot more FPS.
That's what I said.

Of course when the buffer is full might get more FPS if not something else is limiting it.

There are different lamps with different colour temperature, I simply use auto WB since that works quite well.
With portrait you can get the white balance quite well from someone eye white so I use that but a card is better of course.

A camera has a buffer so FPS stays the same but you can get maybe two or one shot more out of with with a faster card.
Also don't forget that you need a fast card for the video mode that's becoming standard.

The camera will support any speed of card but if it can use all that speed is another story.

Also the class of the card is the minimum speed of write and read, so the card has a high read speed but low write speed then the low write speed will be the class.

If the sigma 50mm macro comes close to the dfa100mm macro i have, it would be better then the da*50-135.

Would be interesting to see those 300mm landscape shots, it can be done but it's surely a challenge.

Good luck Steve, be creative

Pink you mean this hot right?
link

There are several ways, these are just suggestions, so try them out and see what you get since there are many options.

One might be duo-toning, set colour mode to grey-scale and after that you can select duo-tone in the same menu.

Another might is making it black and white and make a new layer with the later setting on "color" and simply use the bucket tool to drop the right colour in the new layer.

And the other comes close to what John wrote but instead of sepia you can also select your own colour.

Instead of burning like they suggest in the tut, you can also duplicate the layer and set it to "softlight" that saturates the image and adds contrast and you can control it quite good.

Mike W. is very right there.
A 50mm macro is a very nice lens so really just take that out for a day and give it a good work out.
You might see some shots where you wished you had taken another lens with you but after a few shots you know what 50mm can do and you focus and that lens and look for things that you can shoot with it.
And most probably you will see things that you wouldn't have seen otherwise.

With the summer I was on a holiday and there was a wood near the place we stayed so I went for a hike and took a different lens everyday. I've learned my lenses quite well in that week, just bought the DA*50-135 which got used a lot.

When the lens just came out some members here where complaining about the focusing.
What light was there when you shot the shot, if you use tungsten light it might preform better under sun light.

Mike, what do you think of the lens after a month, is it a keeper?

If I go to something specific I only take with me what I need.
I've trip planned to an auto race the 3rd and I will probably only take the DA*50-135 with me.
That's also the lens I take with to family visits with the DA40 for the bit wider shots.

On walks I can only take the DFA100mm macro with me and since I've only that lens with me I only look at things I can photograph with that lens.
If I take everything I don't look for things to photograph but simply photograph what looks pretty...

I don't know if you've a prime lens (every one should have at least one) but if so take only that with you how hard it might look.
Just do it and experience the freedom of one focal length and you might be able to take less the other time.