You can also try that the shop will make a deal with you with the DA version instead of the DA-L.

Those aren't lumopro thought

Gareth the LumoPro LP120 is here €109 and has a guidenumber of 80 at normal zoom (50mm), so not at fullest zoom (85mm) which means it's quite powerful!
It also has four connections so almost every kind of trigger will fit

Here are some reviews.
http://www.studiolighting.net/lumopro-lp120-flash-review/
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2009/03/manual-flashes-two-debuts-and-adoption.html

I know about the copy protect, it's the same as with floppies, it's a little switch at the side, the mini and micro version don't have such a switch though.

Did you also know that they are very robust, they can survive a trip in a washing machine (with a bit of luck?).

ALso the new generation is being prepared, the standard is already here.
It's called SDXC and can go up to 2 TB.
It seems they are already out.
http://www.toshiba.com/taec/news/press_releases/2009/memy_09_572.jsp

Also the new format is exFAT of the SDXC so a simple update might not do it, although you can probably flash the card to FAT... or not, don't know if it's hitting the limits of the FAT format.

Yes indeed they work differently.

I also just found out that a card must first erase the data before he can writes on it so it can not write over it like on hard-disk and forms of magnetic data.
So ever write would always means two actions so erase and write.

So what I said about formatting, might not be true.
- The FAT entries are cleared.
- The root directory is cleared out.

I'm looking for some good and simple of camera flash and I only need manual mode.

First I was looking at second-hand flashguns but most weren't really that powerful but then I came across the LumoPro LP120.
has anyone have experience with them?
Even your thoughts about them would be helpful.

http://www.lumopro.com/LP120.html

ps. forgot to ask how the Cactus v4 triggers are?

ps again.
does any one have experience with the other things lumapro sells, particularly their stands?

No you don't see the squares in the viewfinder since they didn't incorporate that screen into it. Some here say it's because the lack of room.
You do see the green hexagon light up in the information bar in the viewfinder.

There is however an AF point information screen on the big LCD screen on the back of the K-X, it shows which points you use.

I said that I only use centre spot with sport since that's the best AF point on the camera.
Since you know that it focus on the centre spot, I don't see it a problem that the red square doesn't light up in the viewfinder to indicate which point is in focus.

I don't believe that using the AF button instead of the shutter release as focusing makes the AF snappier.
It's all because you use centre focus, the other ones around the centre one are also good but the ones at the far left and right side are less so I won't use those too much, only when needed.

I think this happen when you format a flash card, of course other file system formats apply as well.
- The FAT entries are cleared.
- The root directory is cleared out.
- Format then checks each cluster to see if it is good or bad and marks it in the FAT.

So basicly formatting destroys the "map" to the files so an operation system can't find them any more.

There is also a form of formatting that you change the file-system, this can also be done with flash memory.
By the looks of it the exFAT would be the new standard format for the upcoming cards and it will remove the 4gb file limit meaning you can record video till the card is full, maybe if Pentax would get a license to use it then they would have the longest video record time of all the cameras out there, might look interesting on paper.

That the camera makes a folder during formatting is quite normal since the camera assumes you would use it for in the camera and DCIM is a standard camera folder to drop your photos in and other information.
It has nothing to do with formatting.

I still can't follow you... well I can but I've no idea why you want to go in that Edit / Menus for?

As for Camera Distortion, look under Filter>Distort>Lens Correction... that's probably the one you want.

Why is that concerning, I would only use centerspot when dealing with sport since the AF focus there the best.
And yes your interpretation is right, it are the red squares in the viewfinder.

That could be it.

Try some shots on a tripod or place the camera on something steady with 2 second delay so that you can rule camera shake out and with the 2 second delay the Anti-Shake is inactive.

Also this just a little tip, the KX preforms better at ISO200 then at ISO100 how crazy that might sound.
The standard design ISO of the sensor is ISO200 and it gets ISO100 by some software tricks.