The first one is doing so much for me but I like how the skies comes out with the green trees but the left side of the photo looks greyish to the rest.

The B&W is better, the shine of the metal really comes out of that photo.

Yes, I release the amount off threads when creating this one
I like Doug's idea for making it the entries anonymous, that way the voting and the entries would be in one thread.

Manually making the poll isn't a lot of work, I had two pages open one with the poll and the other with the entries and it was a simple copy paste thing.
It took me around the 10 minutes and that includes writing the comment.

But something automated would be better.


To sum the things that might change for the next one.
- Competition will run for 4 weeks with the last week for voting, this is done to relief some pressure off the other competition
- Anonymous entries

What do you think of those?

ps. I quite love the poll, I keep coming back to peek to see how the scores are

The sensor in the W80 isn't great, the W60 is the better one of the two I believe the W90 is also decent.

here is a review off the W90 link

The W60 and W80 taking on other waterproof cameras link

Very nice Davex, that looks a lot better.
More contrast and the differences between the colours come out more with that one.

Sorry Techno, I seem to go too fast sometimes.
Still everything is connected with each other since this is all about exposure.

This a read that might help you with my previous comment. link
The part about high and low key images is what I mean that the exposure meter inside the camera aims to get grey (midtones) so confronted with a dark or a bright scene the meter in the camera doesn't know it needs to be that bright or dark so it keep on trying to get grey.
You need to see that for yourself and correct the limitation of the metering device by over or under expose the photo to get the right exposure.

Glad to hear that Pete, I only hear about the failures here.
What do you use to clean them?

Yes but when you look at this forum you see many that complain they are even dirtier after they tried to clean it

So my advice is leave it alone or get it cleaned by a professional.

I understand what you mean Techno but getting the exposure to zero is only to help you have a starting point to get the photo your way so setting the exposure to zero manually or by the press off a button doesn't change the end result.
You're just skipping the step of setting the camera to default so to speak.

Having the exposure at zero isn't the guarantee to have a correct exposure, which Neil already said.

The exposure meter is aiming to get 12% grey.
That means with a scene with a lot of white the camera actually underexpose to make the white grey, with black the camera overexpose to make the black grey.

Neil's solution is to bracket (take 3 photos, one under, one at zero, one over) but I find that cheating though.
I take a test shot at the zero value and look at the histogram to get the photo right.

The histogram is the best tool to give you information how the exposure of the photo is. The screen brightness is not to be trusted since indoors it's too bright and outdoors too dark so don't judge exposure on the preview photo you see.

Saw the Airbus at Le Bourget (Paris) air show in 2005.
It was completely empty so that thing is super agile then and the runway length needed was also surprisingly short and like Mike says it just seems to float.
The wings produce enough lift to carry 590,000 kg and typical operating empty is slightly over 250,000 kg so enough lift to spare when it's empty.

Are they already out of the red numbers with that plane?

Neil you're right the green buttons does work like P, Tv or Av that way but the difference is it only change the values once and not constantly like with those modes.
In your first explanation you also explain how to bring the exposure value to zero, you take away the time to do that with the green button and then the rest goes as you explain further.
So the green button is just a tool to get the camera to the default zero exposure setting so to speak where you can start from.

I actually forgot the K-X didn't had an optical preview button, I myself have only used the DOF preview sometimes when the camera was on a tripod for studio shots and landscapes.