On the left side of your viewfinder you will find a button with 3 screens next to it, that's the bracket button press that and hold it and you can set the number of shots with your front e-dial (3 or 5 shots) and with the back e-dial you can set the exposure space.

I hope that that does it for you

Yes as they say on 35mm format so full frame.

The Z-Pro system is much more expensive almost double the price and Cokin now has a special P wide-angle holder that holds only 1 P-filter
link

Hey
here you go Cokin website
A serie use smaller filters and isn't suitable for wide angle lenses, just get the P it doesn't cost much more.

The Z-PRO use even lager filters so there are also suited for wider lenses but alsohave higher quality filters.
My Z is on his way but because of christmas and new year they will only arive the 5th of January

Too bad you didn't had another chance, I would like to see more from you and your telescope.

That isn't that long I was already thinking about times against the 10 minutes or so
Why did you need such a long exposure of the star trail was it so dim?

It looks quite simple to make one, we have a CNC on school so we might be able to make a parabolic mirror of any size... maybe use a softer materiale (faster milling cheaper for us) and use a reflective fabric or some sort or coat it, hmmm... i need to think about that

Thanks Father Ted

I'm quite interesting in astrophotography, I always had an simple telescope as a kid (I sound so old )
Need the digg in a bit further in the matter to see what can be done.

I'm really amazed what greyhoundman has done, it's fascinating

What kind of exposure time do you use, if you use long exposures you probable need a tracking system right?

Well that depends PR, for his son it probable would but if he is on an university it might be very handy.

There are really some good reasons to buy one if you draw.
You can draw the line right the first time and you can easly position it to draw the line better so it works much faster and more preciese that it saves money because of that.

Your welcome Barrie

Well the resolution increase because the dpi(?) stays the same, so an A4 would have twice the resolution of an A5.

You can decrease the area of the tablet with the software so you could make from an A4 an A5 if you want or something in between or smaller.

I myself find it very hard not to be able to draw directly on the drawing, like what you do with paper. I find it very hard to draw the lines, colouring goes very well it's just the finer things where position and fluency is important.
For 3D animation, modelling and retouching this is just less of an issue and didn't find myself struggling.

I've tried the Cintiq 12WX once and I'm very tempting to buy one if the price wasn't that high...
hmmm maybe now that the Pound is low

edit
oops, I've readed your comment a bit wrong.
Bamboo one = 1040 dpi, pen pressure sensitivity 512 levels
Bamboo = 2540 dpi, pen 512 levels
Bamboo Fun = 2540 dpi, pen 512 levels
Intuos3 = 5080 dpi, Tilt sensitivity ± 60°, pen pressure sensitivity 1024 levels

With the Intuos3 you can use defferent pens and it has tilt, they work very pleasantly.
For a budget (beginners) solution the Bamboo Fun Medium (A5) would be great.
Don't look for other brands because the pens work on battery and make them heavier, the Wacom's are really worth there price.

How big your movements are going to be, the area of the tablet correspond with your screen.

You can compare it with actually drawing something on the size of a piece of paper.

A6 is quite small so your drawings will be smaller and less precies but you don't need to move as much with your hand.
A4 is much larger so if you use the whole paper your drawing would have more detail and be precieser if compared with the A6 (if you blow the drawing up to A4 size).
Does this make sense?

A6 is fine to replace your mouse and retouching photos, but if your really wanna draw A5 and up are much better.

Here's a screen shot with the date for the ones that don't seem to know here how to get there link