My monitor is supposed to be colour balanced using Huey/Argyll
but using the bitmap from GreyScale at this site the highest white visible
is 240..... which is not very good.... so 240 to 255 look burnt
out.

It was just one rare album track I was after. The Supremes and Temptations River Deep and Mountain High. I don't usually buy MP3's I prefer CD's and I just tried Itunes after they said I needed their player installed I bought it from Woolworths a lot cheaper, then found it on a Motown Compilation CD on ebay so I bought that as well.

You Lucky so and so

Should save you quite a bit of time transferring photos
over to the PC

The 18% Grey Card also the 18% Grey Expodisc (very accurate) are
just known standards.

In the Zone System the Grey Card was just a known reference
(Zone V). Exposure was actually based on a density reading of
0.1 above film base + fog. This was defined by Ansel Adams
and he was unhappy about standards that introduced a K
factor into metering arguing that the photographer should
make all the decisions.

In digital it would probably make sense to base exposures
backwards from an almost pure white such as 250R 250G 250B
assuming that this was part of the photograph.

John. you obviously haven't read the link at the top of this thread.
The problem is not the metering it's the sensor and the angle of the light
hitting it from a wide aperture lens.

Apart from bokeh and shallow DOF anything below about f/1.7 is of no advantage on digital.

It seems that Can/Nik adjust the ISO to give the correct exposure
at wide apertures. Pentax thankfully don't and leave the shot
underexposed and the photographer can adjust it himself.

PC.... I can't see any point in paying twice as much for the same stuff.
Plus I can't stand Apples attitude. They won't even let me buy an
MP3 off their site unless I install ITunes on my PC which I will never do!
I can't even play a crappy Quicktime movie without the codec calling home.

My PC belongs to ME...... well a bit belongs to Microsoft and a bit to
Google and a bit to Adobe....... and a bit to Virgin but, they let me use
it when I want...... None of it belongs to Norton/Symantec

You've had a lot of views and I would expect will set some sort of record for the number of snipes

It's a lens I would have been interested in but couldn't justify the price/use ratio.
I've already far too many 50-58mm's which they rarely get used
since I switched to digital a few years ago

Good Luck! I hope you get the high price this lens deserves

I think you'll find your 50mm f/1.2 underexposing
by almost 1 stop below f/2.0 then. The same with the
FA 50mm f/1.4

A 50mm f/1.7 'M' would be fine to begin with. Look into later getting a 49mm reversing ring for larger magnifications. I would try extension rings or a dedicated macro lens first though.

The seller of that bellows is a well known publisher and writer who uses mostly Sony/Minolta gear so he's reliable. Seems strange that he has a Pentax bellows when Minolta made some good and very advanced bellows such as scissor models?

The price seems high I would have thought £60 especially considering it's not quite complete, although you can DL the manual and the double cable release is for film cameras only.

It's stated somewhere on the web Stefan exactly what K value Pentax set their meters to. As a follower of Ansel Adams Zone System in my film days I never bother about K values and just stick to 18% Grey which is RGB 118 and then work from there. The digital cameras don't seem to work too accurately anyway.... it's very hard to allow for +- 1/3rd stop. When I tried using Manual Green Button +-0 I got RGB 121 set to -0.3 I still got RGB 121 , -0.7 gave me RGB 113 and then -1.0 gave me RGB 98

I've now got to work out how to meter off a white highlight. Three stops exposure below the RGB 118 gave me RGB 255 so I need to test further in 1/3 stop increments between -2 and -3 stops.

I didn't notice but on the "What's New" page on the above site they stated the following which is in line with what I said. See Open Letter on "What's New"

"Indeed – does it even make sense to use fast lenses on a CMOS sensor DSLR when you could get better quality, along with smaller size and lower weight with a slower lens to start with?"