Nothing to stop you moving the "My Documents" or "My Pictures" folders to a different disk or partition. That way, you put your data somewhere other than the C: drive, and also organise using the file path that most image organiser programs seem to search for by default. Best of your way, and the best of John's.

Third one of the set is the one for me too. Great expression, and the tilt adds a great quirky touch.

Duncan

Certainly for still life, and to a lesser extent for landscapes, I'd recommend a three way head over either ball or pistol. I have a ball head for use on my monopod and tried it on the tripod for still life. It was a right royal pain in the butt to try and get things lined up. Using a three way head for still life allows you to adjust each axis independently. Using a ball head meant that once you'd got it right in one plane and wanted to tweak it in another, you'd mess up the bit you'd just spent ages sorting out as the darned thing flopped about all over the place.

For monopod a ball head is fine as you tend to swing the stick to fine tune it anyway.

I think it's fair to say that the choice of lenses of over 300mm is still reduced compared to the big two brands, especially in the premium quality designs. Whether the run of the mill amateur needs such glass is another question. I'd say it does change the perception of the brand though, reducing it's perceived status.

I would like something to cover 200-400 for airshows, f/4.5 or 5.6 would probably be fast enough for my needs, as long as the resolution was good, a 400 f/5.6 prime would do me.

Duncan

Thank you for this information, much appreciated.

Regardless of how fast the lens is, and to a certain extent, how much light there is, if there's no "edge" with a bit of contrast the AF will struggle. In very bright conditions, if I try to AF on something like a plain, smooth white sheet of paper with no texture, the AF will hunt like crazy.

If you've something in hte frame with a contrasty edge, it will work in relatively low light, but not a coal cellar.

To stop anyone else asking, the teleconvertor I offered for sale at the top of page 4 has been sold (to Oggy).

There are times when you can't get the whole of the picture "correctly" exposed with a single frame, be it film or digital, there simply isn't enough range available. HDR can have the same effect as using an ND grad on a landscape image, if it's done correctly.

As John has said, church interiors are notoriously difficult. Can't stand a lot of over-processed HDR stuff myself (it's just a matter of taste), but I'd never have been able to get this with a single exposure, no matter how much playing around I'd have done. It's a blend of five exposures.

[IMG]http://www.worldphotographyforum.com/gallery/data/503/Church_window.jpg[/IMG]

Duncan

Matt, does the ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI software cope with dual monitors?

Yes, I like panos. I use Panorama Factory to stitch them together. Click on image for bigger version.

[IMG]http://homepage.ntlworld.com/duncan.hill2/Temp%20Photos/Dales%20panorama%20small%20highlights%20corrected.jpg[/IMG]