Usage of fast lens! Query
Posted 05/07/2009 - 23:32
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It might be a good idea to post a picture as an example of what you are shooting.
The 50mm f1.4 is ideal for low light, but it does depend on the subject. If the light is really poor manual focus might be better - focusing will certainly be critical as I assume you are using it with a wide aperture so you can hand hold.
The 50mm f1.4 is ideal for low light, but it does depend on the subject. If the light is really poor manual focus might be better - focusing will certainly be critical as I assume you are using it with a wide aperture so you can hand hold.
Best regards, John
Posted 05/07/2009 - 23:41
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You have to ask how low was the light. From f3.5 to f1.4 is only about 3 stops which will not let you take images in the dark.
Barrie - Too Old To Die Young
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Posted 06/07/2009 - 10:52
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I got a SMC-F 50mm F1.7 and it hunted for focus as well, Dunno if it being the first implementation of AF plays a role, but I was disapointed as well.
Posted 06/07/2009 - 11:20
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edumad wrote:
I got a SMC-F 50mm F1.7 and it hunted for focus as well, Dunno if it being the first implementation of AF plays a role, but I was disapointed as well.
Daylight or sunlight is no problem and the shots are great, But i was useing it last night in the house at about 10pm(shooting my dvd collection) and it just would not focus, It May just be down to it being very low light
I got a SMC-F 50mm F1.7 and it hunted for focus as well, Dunno if it being the first implementation of AF plays a role, but I was disapointed as well.
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Posted 06/07/2009 - 11:20
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Mannesty wrote:
If your flash can be set so that the focus assist light is used, but no flash, that should help focussing in very low light. The setting on Pentax flashes is SB (Spot Beam).
i only have the internal flash at the min
If your flash can be set so that the focus assist light is used, but no flash, that should help focussing in very low light. The setting on Pentax flashes is SB (Spot Beam).
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Posted 06/07/2009 - 12:04
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It's probably a good idea to get a better definition of what you mean by "low light"
Give us an exposure reading and that will help (e.g. ISO3200, f/2, 1/30)
In all situations you need a good point of reference for focussing - something with some contrast. Personally, I find that I always use centre-only focus point, and make use of the dedicated "AF" button (and disable the "AF on halfpress of shutter" in the custom menu). That way I can point to something that I know has some contrast, then reframe and shoot.
But let's start with the exposure reading to give us an idea of what you are looking at
Matt
Give us an exposure reading and that will help (e.g. ISO3200, f/2, 1/30)
In all situations you need a good point of reference for focussing - something with some contrast. Personally, I find that I always use centre-only focus point, and make use of the dedicated "AF" button (and disable the "AF on halfpress of shutter" in the custom menu). That way I can point to something that I know has some contrast, then reframe and shoot.
But let's start with the exposure reading to give us an idea of what you are looking at
Matt
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Posted 06/07/2009 - 12:28
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MattMatic wrote:
It's probably a good idea to get a better definition of what you mean by "low light"
Give us an exposure reading and that will help (e.g. ISO3200, f/2, 1/30)
In all situations you need a good point of reference for focussing - something with some contrast. Personally, I find that I always use centre-only focus point, and make use of the dedicated "AF" button (and disable the "AF on halfpress of shutter" in the custom menu). That way I can point to something that I know has some contrast, then reframe and shoot.
But let's start with the exposure reading to give us an idea of what you are looking at
Matt
ok great thanks for the info i will update the thraed when i get home
It's probably a good idea to get a better definition of what you mean by "low light"
Give us an exposure reading and that will help (e.g. ISO3200, f/2, 1/30)
In all situations you need a good point of reference for focussing - something with some contrast. Personally, I find that I always use centre-only focus point, and make use of the dedicated "AF" button (and disable the "AF on halfpress of shutter" in the custom menu). That way I can point to something that I know has some contrast, then reframe and shoot.
But let's start with the exposure reading to give us an idea of what you are looking at
Matt
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Posted 06/07/2009 - 12:48
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Regardless of how fast the lens is, and to a certain extent, how much light there is, if there's no "edge" with a bit of contrast the AF will struggle. In very bright conditions, if I try to AF on something like a plain, smooth white sheet of paper with no texture, the AF will hunt like crazy.
If you've something in hte frame with a contrasty edge, it will work in relatively low light, but not a coal cellar.
If you've something in hte frame with a contrasty edge, it will work in relatively low light, but not a coal cellar.
Posted 06/07/2009 - 15:16
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Unlocker wrote:
Buy a K-7!
Are you on commission?
organicimagery wrote:
I still find it really bad in low light . What should i be doing to obtain the most from this lens?
Devils Advocate.I still find it really bad in low light . What should i be doing to obtain the most from this lens?
Buy a K-7!
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
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