All Forum Comments
Comment by womble posted on When all is said and done! at 31/01/2010 - 12:18
Malo1961 wrote:
... I would clone away the debris to give it a cleaner look.
I was wondering whether I should do that but wanted to make sure other people liked the image first before I started. (I know, I'm lazy!)... I would clone away the debris to give it a cleaner look.
Thanks all the useful comments.
Best wishes, K.
The Optech strap is very comfy, much better than the strap that came with the camera, and long enough to wear diagonally across my chest which I prefer. Also, you can unclip it easily which is helpful with tripod/copystand type work.
K.
K.
Comment by womble posted on Camera Strap? at 31/01/2010 - 01:49
I cannot comment on the K7 as I do not own one but the upgrade to the K20D was worth it for the lens adjustments alone. The only other feature I have used extensively is the single shutter button press to take all 5 bracketed exposures. I also just had one photo printed at A2 and the K20D's image size coped with that admirably.
I would ask what you feel you need more, the various improvements in the K20/K7 over the K10, or some new glass? The K10 is a fine camera and I rarely notice that I have changed to a new model! As much as I would like a K7, I would rather get the DA* 300 first
HTH, K.
I would ask what you feel you need more, the various improvements in the K20/K7 over the K10, or some new glass? The K10 is a fine camera and I rarely notice that I have changed to a new model! As much as I would like a K7, I would rather get the DA* 300 first
HTH, K.
Comment by womble posted on K20d or K7?? at 31/01/2010 - 01:45
There are all sorts of issues here. Please excuse me if some of the following sounds like teaching grandma to suck eggs. You clearly have plenty of experience with film.
Firstly, clearly, we need to make sure the camera is working at all. Are you getting acceptable images when just using it in unchallenging conditions, e.g., just taking snapshots?
Secondly, to expand on John's comment. The pop-up flash emits a "pre-flash" to determine exposure. If you are using the flash to trigger the studio lights this pre-flash will fire your strobes prematurely. The K20 has settings about controlling flash in wireless mode which may help although most people prefer using a radio or IR triggers (I am not a studio person).
Lastly, moonlit scenes suffer from nature of a digital sensor's response curve. With film, bright areas of the image can retain detail even when quite over-exposed (obviously this varies with different types of film). Digital, however, has a straight reponse curve so that when highlights reach maximum brightness they become blown and contain no detail at all. The solution is to 'shoot to the right' which means checking that the histogram of light values (available during playback by pressing the INFO button) does not go over the right hand edge of the graph. This can result in what seem like dark, under-exposed images but by adjusting the levels in post processing (I use the fill light slider in lightroom) you can bring out the details in the dark areas. In extreme cases you might have to blend images taken at different exposures or use some form of HDR (high dynamic range) processing.
Hope this helps. K.
Firstly, clearly, we need to make sure the camera is working at all. Are you getting acceptable images when just using it in unchallenging conditions, e.g., just taking snapshots?
Secondly, to expand on John's comment. The pop-up flash emits a "pre-flash" to determine exposure. If you are using the flash to trigger the studio lights this pre-flash will fire your strobes prematurely. The K20 has settings about controlling flash in wireless mode which may help although most people prefer using a radio or IR triggers (I am not a studio person).
Lastly, moonlit scenes suffer from nature of a digital sensor's response curve. With film, bright areas of the image can retain detail even when quite over-exposed (obviously this varies with different types of film). Digital, however, has a straight reponse curve so that when highlights reach maximum brightness they become blown and contain no detail at all. The solution is to 'shoot to the right' which means checking that the histogram of light values (available during playback by pressing the INFO button) does not go over the right hand edge of the graph. This can result in what seem like dark, under-exposed images but by adjusting the levels in post processing (I use the fill light slider in lightroom) you can bring out the details in the dark areas. In extreme cases you might have to blend images taken at different exposures or use some form of HDR (high dynamic range) processing.
Hope this helps. K.
Comment by womble posted on ISO accuracy at 31/01/2010 - 01:34
Lovely shots, and the light was very crisp and bright today, wasn't it? Best wishes, Kris.
Comment by womble posted on A Handful from the Park at 31/01/2010 - 00:10
The second shot is my favourite, the last one makes me grin from ear to ear.
Best wishes, Kris.
Best wishes, Kris.
Comment by womble posted on A walk in the woods, snow and dogs. at 31/01/2010 - 00:06
axl wrote:
Bought 31ltd in January 09 when Jessops stupidly decided to discontinue Pentax. My local branch made sale on Pentax stuff and I got brand new shiny silver 31 for pretty unbelievable £342.50
Bought 31ltd in January 09 when Jessops stupidly decided to discontinue Pentax. My local branch made sale on Pentax stuff and I got brand new shiny silver 31 for pretty unbelievable £342.50
Blimey, I missed out there. A real bargain!
K.
Comment by womble posted on "K" series lenses at 30/01/2010 - 23:35
Best wishes, K.