ISO accuracy
Posted 30/01/2010 - 19:17
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Digital use a little bit different standard then film but the difference is around 1/3th of a stop to maybe 2/3 at most but reading your post it sounds it's 2 to even 3 stops too dark.
I've no idea what's going wrong.
What lens are you using?
I've no idea what's going wrong.
What lens are you using?
Posted 30/01/2010 - 19:24
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DA 18-55
Posted 30/01/2010 - 19:59
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Is this the first time you've used your new camera?
Tried cleaning the contacts on the lens and camera body?
Be good if you could take and upload some images.
Tried cleaning the contacts on the lens and camera body?
Be good if you could take and upload some images.
Posted 31/01/2010 - 00:52
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To all intents and purposes you can assume ISO is the same on film and digital.
The moonlit scenario is not straightforward, so I would bracket to ensure the correct exposure.
If you can't get a correct exposure in daylight then something is wrong. If you are trying to trigger studio lights with the built in flash then this will be the cause of your problems.
The moonlit scenario is not straightforward, so I would bracket to ensure the correct exposure.
If you can't get a correct exposure in daylight then something is wrong. If you are trying to trigger studio lights with the built in flash then this will be the cause of your problems.
Best regards, John
Posted 31/01/2010 - 01:34
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There are all sorts of issues here. Please excuse me if some of the following sounds like teaching grandma to suck eggs. You clearly have plenty of experience with film.
Firstly, clearly, we need to make sure the camera is working at all. Are you getting acceptable images when just using it in unchallenging conditions, e.g., just taking snapshots?
Secondly, to expand on John's comment. The pop-up flash emits a "pre-flash" to determine exposure. If you are using the flash to trigger the studio lights this pre-flash will fire your strobes prematurely. The K20 has settings about controlling flash in wireless mode which may help although most people prefer using a radio or IR triggers (I am not a studio person).
Lastly, moonlit scenes suffer from nature of a digital sensor's response curve. With film, bright areas of the image can retain detail even when quite over-exposed (obviously this varies with different types of film). Digital, however, has a straight reponse curve so that when highlights reach maximum brightness they become blown and contain no detail at all. The solution is to 'shoot to the right' which means checking that the histogram of light values (available during playback by pressing the INFO button) does not go over the right hand edge of the graph. This can result in what seem like dark, under-exposed images but by adjusting the levels in post processing (I use the fill light slider in lightroom) you can bring out the details in the dark areas. In extreme cases you might have to blend images taken at different exposures or use some form of HDR (high dynamic range) processing.
Hope this helps. K.
Firstly, clearly, we need to make sure the camera is working at all. Are you getting acceptable images when just using it in unchallenging conditions, e.g., just taking snapshots?
Secondly, to expand on John's comment. The pop-up flash emits a "pre-flash" to determine exposure. If you are using the flash to trigger the studio lights this pre-flash will fire your strobes prematurely. The K20 has settings about controlling flash in wireless mode which may help although most people prefer using a radio or IR triggers (I am not a studio person).
Lastly, moonlit scenes suffer from nature of a digital sensor's response curve. With film, bright areas of the image can retain detail even when quite over-exposed (obviously this varies with different types of film). Digital, however, has a straight reponse curve so that when highlights reach maximum brightness they become blown and contain no detail at all. The solution is to 'shoot to the right' which means checking that the histogram of light values (available during playback by pressing the INFO button) does not go over the right hand edge of the graph. This can result in what seem like dark, under-exposed images but by adjusting the levels in post processing (I use the fill light slider in lightroom) you can bring out the details in the dark areas. In extreme cases you might have to blend images taken at different exposures or use some form of HDR (high dynamic range) processing.
Hope this helps. K.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
Posted 31/01/2010 - 01:59
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Thank you to all of you that helped with this problem. I believe I have resolved my issue. After reading the book over and over again for about the 50th time I think I found 2 reasons that caused my problem. First of all auto iso was set to span 100-200. That explained the lack of function in the auto modes. I was not aware you could set the range of the auto ISO. As to the manual usage. (Read exposure with a meter and set camera accordingly.) The problem was #18 in the custom menu was turned off. I turned it on. Set the amount to strong. guess what? It works! I didnt think my vivitar 45 could be wrong. At least I didnt try to fix it with a hammer LOL.
Thanks again to all of you.
Thanks again to all of you.
Posted 31/01/2010 - 02:03
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Womble, thanks for all that information. However, before I go through all that trouble I think I'll bring one of the film cameras out of the collection and buy a roll of film.
Thanks,
Steven
Thanks,
Steven
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63 posts
16 years
Buffalo,
Wyoming USA
I am using Pentax SMC 18-55 DA