I've been looking around at ND sets and have found that both Lee and Cokin have some very well priced sets of 1/2/3EV stop sets (and the Cokin comes with a case ). Seems like a good idea to get something that I won't have to replace. I'm interested to know what people use and what they think of them.

I'm also scared by the price of a circular polariser for either system at £200 At leas it is a one off cost rather than one for each lens size.

Very nice

Need to get myself some ND grads and a holder. Unfortunately I need a job first...

- Shake Reduction - I think you can get blurred images if SR is on and you're mounted on a tripod.

- Senor cleaning - Yes it slows down time to shoot. Secondly the sensor cleaning really does not work, but something like an Arctic Butterfly SL700 does (I check my sensor every so often before I go out and shoot and clean it if required).

- White Balance - Just shoot RAW, then you never have to worry about WB as it can be adjusted later and not damage the image. Camera WB adjustments setting is saved into the RAW file and it right most of the time.

- Firmware - http://www.pentax.co.uk/_uk/photo/products/index.php?cameras&gruppe=digital%...


Hints and tips... Try out Lightroom as a digital darkroom, it is fantastic (though a little pricey, but you can still find some places selling at the discounted price http://www.warehouseexpress.com/?photo/software/adobe.html#PC312660 ).

Have you seen the webcams on notebooks, like the newer MacBooks? They are about 2mm lens and 6mm diameter cameras with most of the electronics within a 2cm space.

Big difference with DSLRs is all the extra processing, memory, display, motors controls... Although I don't see why a digital back would not be possible.

Unfortunately none of my cameras have exchangeable backs, plus I've got a K10 anyway.


PS. Anyone else think K10 sounds better than K10D?

Ass-a-hì... I think...

I'm not very fond of it at all, much prefer the shape of the standard K10.

TFT pannels don't have a refresh rate because they don't draw the image. They still update in lines because that is how GPUs work, but they could update in one go given enough bandwidth. The cold cathode tube behind a TFT pannel runs on DC therefore not 'flashing'.

One bad thing is cold cathode TFTs use a polariser, LED TFTs have no need for one which is one reason they produce better colours.

Not if you have an LCD display... They only have one resolution...

My brother has an old 20" flat CRT which I'd like to use for photo work, just need to get it here somehow. It weighs half a ton...

If you really wanted a complete list...

These are the accepted formats and their codes:

QVGA 320 x 240 = 0.07 MP (random fact, a dragonfly sees with a resolution of 0.06MP)

VGA 640 x 480 = 0.30 MP

Enhanced NTSC 720 x 480 = 0.34 MP

Enhanced PAL 720 x 576 = 0.41 MP

SVGA 800 x 600 = 0.48 MP

XGA 1024 x 768 = 0.78 MP

HDTV 720p 1280 x 720 = 0.92 MP

WXGA 1 1280 x 768 = 0.98 MP

WXGA 2 1280 x 800 = 1.02 MP

WXGA 3 1366 x 768 = 1.04 MP

XGA+ 1200 x 900 = 1.08 MP

WXGA+ 1440 x 900 = 1.29 MP

SXGA 1280 x 1024 = 1.31 MP

SXGA+ 1440 x 1050 = 1.51 MP

WSXGA+ 1680 x 1050 = 1.76 MP

UXGA 1600 x 1200 = 1.92 MP

HDTV 1080i 1920 x 1080 = 1.04 x 2 MP (Interlaced)

HDTV 1080p 1920 x 1080 = 2.07 MP

WUXGA 1920 x 1200 = 2.30 MP

QXGA 2048 x 1536 = 3.14 MP

WQXGA 2560 x 1600 = 4.09 MP

QSXGA 2560 x 2048 = 5.24 MP

QSXGA+ 2880 x 2160 = 6.22 MP

WQSXGA+ 3360 x 2160 = 7.25 MP

QUXGA 3200 x 2400 = 7.68 MP

WQUXGA 3840 x 2400 = 9.21 MP






I have a single 1920x1200 screen.

Like the K10D but with the battery grip permanently attatched? a 12MP sensor... erm... What else would anyone want or need?