All Forum Comments
Comment by Tyr posted on Jessops 1GB SD Card Problem with K100D at 10/06/2007 - 10:13
Sounds like you've got a bad card, I'd return it for a refund and get something more reliable.
Comment by Tyr posted on Jessops 1GB SD Card Problem with K100D at 09/06/2007 - 20:10
I don't know how much you have edited those images. What you really need to do is upload an unmodified image and one that looks right on your screen. Then we can compare them and see if is the K10D underexposing or just your monitor which is too dark.
Do you have a CRT or an LCD display? CRTs can be calibrated using patterns and don't need a hardware sensor.
Do you have a CRT or an LCD display? CRTs can be calibrated using patterns and don't need a hardware sensor.
Your screen is probably uncalibrated. One thing about any display technology is that it will have a bias towards what colour temperature, hue balance, contrast, brightness and gamma that it displays. This will skew the image you see into something rather different to what it actually is.
The histogram is the number 1 tool to decide exposure, the screen is just a 'preview' as rendered by that device. You can calibrate by eye, which is hard because it varies with lighting and more. Secondly, you could buy a calibration device and software which would automatically profile and correct your display.
Oh, having a quick look at your photos only two seem a little underexposed to me, 'tranquil motion' and 'me and my shadow'.
EDIT: I do find that with the DA50-200 I need to 'overexpose' (using the meter) by up to one stop sometimes. This could be due to me using the wrong metering pattern/point though.
The histogram is the number 1 tool to decide exposure, the screen is just a 'preview' as rendered by that device. You can calibrate by eye, which is hard because it varies with lighting and more. Secondly, you could buy a calibration device and software which would automatically profile and correct your display.
Oh, having a quick look at your photos only two seem a little underexposed to me, 'tranquil motion' and 'me and my shadow'.
EDIT: I do find that with the DA50-200 I need to 'overexpose' (using the meter) by up to one stop sometimes. This could be due to me using the wrong metering pattern/point though.
The negative eye is a little distracting and there seems to be something undistinguishable on her arm which is odd. I think it is part of the frame used and would be much better if cleared off there. Otherwise I think it is very eye-catching.
Comment by Tyr posted on Experimental piece. criticisms? at 08/06/2007 - 10:14
Quote:
as a point of interest, HDR is perfectly possible without a tripod, you just have to use Huggin or similar to line the photos up before you blend them. One more step in post, but one less thing to carry in the field.
Of course if you have a tripod with you anyway it's worth using it, but for those "mmm that would make a good HDR" moments it's a good trick.
I have a reactively good tripod, just didn't have any way of transporting it until recently. Ok, it is at least 15 years old and somewhat heavy, but not too bad. Could use a lighter tripod head though as that is the biggest problem.as a point of interest, HDR is perfectly possible without a tripod, you just have to use Huggin or similar to line the photos up before you blend them. One more step in post, but one less thing to carry in the field.
Of course if you have a tripod with you anyway it's worth using it, but for those "mmm that would make a good HDR" moments it's a good trick.
What software? I tried a google for huggin but only came up with lots of tree hugging....
I like playing about with post processing but I'd rather spend that time behind the camera.
Quote:
You see, if you put a filter between the lens and the holder it becomes a right pain to adjust the two! The ideal solution is having the polariser on the end of the filters - then the filters stay put and you can rotate the polariser.
I would add the following info:
* If you have the SMC-DA 12-24, you can just about get away with P-sized filters if you hack the front two filter slots. But then you can't have pol+ND.
* If you have the SMC-DA 16-45 then P-size are just fine. No problems
* The quality of the Cokin Z-pro is much better than the P sized. It's different material.
* The Cokin holders are really tacky. Before I purchased I read reports about the Z-pro holder slipping off etc, and so decided to go with the Lee holder, a 67mm ring, and a 77mm Wide Angle ring for the 12-24.
I would also say that the K10D has a better dynamic range than the *ist-D, and I find I whereas I was using all three on the *ist-D, I generally only use the Z121M when shooting RAW on the K10D... but that maybe just down to the style of image.
Don't think there's a "right" answer. But I reckon if you (a) will use them infrequently on 14mm, (b) use them on 16mm lenses up then the P-size are probably the better bet
(Cheaper and easier to carry around. And the polariser is MUCH cheaper )
...and now that I'm getting more into HDR imaging I'm finding a tripod and multiple RAW exposures is an even better way to go
Matt
I won't have anything wider then 16mm for a while.Quote:
I think you are right that getting a 77mm polariser would be better with some step down rings as the price for a 110/105mm one is crazy.
Not entirely I think you are right that getting a 77mm polariser would be better with some step down rings as the price for a 110/105mm one is crazy.
You see, if you put a filter between the lens and the holder it becomes a right pain to adjust the two! The ideal solution is having the polariser on the end of the filters - then the filters stay put and you can rotate the polariser.
I would add the following info:
* If you have the SMC-DA 12-24, you can just about get away with P-sized filters if you hack the front two filter slots. But then you can't have pol+ND.
* If you have the SMC-DA 16-45 then P-size are just fine. No problems
* The quality of the Cokin Z-pro is much better than the P sized. It's different material.
* The Cokin holders are really tacky. Before I purchased I read reports about the Z-pro holder slipping off etc, and so decided to go with the Lee holder, a 67mm ring, and a 77mm Wide Angle ring for the 12-24.
I would also say that the K10D has a better dynamic range than the *ist-D, and I find I whereas I was using all three on the *ist-D, I generally only use the Z121M when shooting RAW on the K10D... but that maybe just down to the style of image.
Don't think there's a "right" answer. But I reckon if you (a) will use them infrequently on 14mm, (b) use them on 16mm lenses up then the P-size are probably the better bet
(Cheaper and easier to carry around. And the polariser is MUCH cheaper )
...and now that I'm getting more into HDR imaging I'm finding a tripod and multiple RAW exposures is an even better way to go
Matt
I have a tripod so HDR is a possibility, but shooting the sea it doesn't work quite as well because of the amount of movement, especially in longer exposures. For those shots an grad ND set is essential. If it was just a landscape then HDR is fine, although blending in Elements 2 is much harder than later versions or CS2 where you can do it practically automatically.
Was looking at the Z-Pro ND set which comes with 3 grads, case and a holder plus getting a ring for 52mm to start (later a 67 and 77). This costs about the same as a set of Lee ND filters with no ring, no case and no adapter. Still not sure if it would be better to go for the smaller P system. Not sure about the quality and don't have anywhere nearby that would stock this sort of thing to look at.
I think you are right that getting a 77mm polariser would be better with some step down rings as the price for a 110/105mm one is crazy.
I think you are right that getting a 77mm polariser would be better with some step down rings as the price for a 110/105mm one is crazy.
Thanks for the advice
Will the K100D take SHDC cards and if so up to what capacity ?
16GB cards are on their way, but they will cost about the same as a DFA-100F2.8 initially.
Personally I use several SanDisk Extreme III 2GB cards as if a card fails it wasn't too expansive, and I've got others.