28-80 is a lens not a camera, you'll have to tell us what camera it is.

The blurry photos happen because the camera need to get enough light onto the film to get a picture in the dark. The shutter is open for a longer period of time to achieve this and your hand shaking will cause blur.

You should get a photography book as you really won't need the manual if you read about photography and cameras.

The rinf on the lens with numbers from 3.5-22 is the aperture ring.

The dial on the top with B to 2000 is the shutter speed as a reciprocal. 1/2000 being the shutter is open for one two thousandth of a second, while 1 is open for a full second.

Again a book will teach you how to manipulate these to get the desired effect. You also need to make sure the film loaded is of the correct type and speed for the given situation.

The 16-45 is still a fine piece of kit even if it is one stop slower and lacks SDM and weather sealing. It is constantly sharp, has very good resolution characteristics, very well built...

We have to have a computer each, would be impossible otherwise. Have had to share when one or the other has been away for repairs (I'd do it myself but they are laptops and parts are all non standard). We are both into photography, I just got a DSLR first so now she is lagging bahind and waiting. Then again I've been waiting for four years to get a digital camera. Straight from nothing to DSLR (OK I've used a couple of Pentax SLRs but none belonged to me until recently).

As soon as I get a K10 for my other half then there'll be an other. Just need a few more lenses first as sharing them will be a pain if we don't have a few more to go around.

Yep, only use JPEG for web display or sending down the pipe to get it printed. If I was going to print over A3 then I'd send them a disk with TIFFs.

My other half is quite disappointed that she has not been shooting RAW all along as there are some shots which she'd like to manipulate but really can't. Especially with the dynamic range of the S20Pro's RAW capture, she took some pictures yesterday where the sky was completely white on screen. Reducing the exposure, there were no details lost and even the colour of the sky was perfect in one shot. She needs to make a copy of it and then blend it back with the original. With JPEG that range doesn't exist and the flexibility is lost.

Manipulated files are saved as JPEG which I only use for printing, all my editing is either in TIFF or PSD.

Then I have my Lightoom alterations library which is saved and backed up separately.

I just use PEF as I don't like changing the original files. If it becomes obsolete I'll convert them all to something usable. I try to get all my best shots printed anyway so I'm not going to be too bothered what happens to a lot of them in years to come.

You won't really find any fast long lenses with autofocus for £300 new. Second hand you may find something. Problem is F2.8 lenses and zooms tend to be rather expensive.

I mean, the Sigma EX 100-300/4 APO DG is £750 and it is only F4.

The new DA* lenses are good indoors but they are a bit too short to be of use. If you can get that Sigma it looks to be the best option arround at the moment. Only one stop slower than F2.8 so bumping up the ISO sensitivity one stop should be fine.

I've only really noticed it on this one lens because of the very narrow DoF when close but also because it won't lock focus on distant objects at 200mm. My A50f1.7 seems to be back focused as well when I get focus confirmation so it could be the camera (noticed this shooting wide open in Saltaire Church).

How would I go about testing it?

Right, I'm having a fair few problems when using my DA 50-200. Firstly the focus seems to be off every time with it focusing behind what I want to shoot. Secondly it won't focus to infinity (or lock focus on distant objects) when at 200mm. Anyone got any suggestions? I'm getting quite tired of many of my shots being out of focus and needing to be scrapped. Tends to happen when focusing close (less than 2m) and also very far at 200mm focal length.