Looks like a good result.

Personally though, I've found that if you've got a decent lens to start with (which the DA*300 clearly is), then the same or better image can be had by cropping and resizing.

Of course, cropping doesn't always give you a big enough image for things like stock photo libraries who are often very picky about image size. In that situation, only a longer lens would do, but for most people, it shouldn't matter that your cropped image is smaller.

I think the 'street price' of the K-7 has now positioned itself where it should probably be, ie a good £700-800 less than an equivalent Full Frame model.

If lens prices head south too, it could be happier days.

I think it very much depends on the image, and just as importantly, where the framed picture is going to be displayed?

I like the perpsex mounts, but they don't look good in every location. I think you definately need to take into account the environment where it will be displayed, and go from there. (eg Corporate enviro - modern mount?/cosy cottage - traditional mount?)

There are no hard and fast rules though, as with most things photography related!

I've no idea what the user base is for Pentax cameras now across Europe, but it must be considerable?

Maybe the strategy, if there was one, was to wait until the user base was large enough and then start to increase the price of Pentax lenses to boost profitability. People who have invested heavily in a camera system are reluctant to change brands, so are more likely to keep buying into the system?

I could be wide of the mark, as lens prices across all brands seem to have gone stupid the last 6 months, and they have risen well above the yen/sterling exchange rate.

There is a review of the K-7 in this months Photo Pro magazine, got mine through the letterbox last Thursday.

Overall, the reviewer was very positive.

He did make the comment that Pentax was now playing in a very big pond with the price point, and that Pro's would have to make a big decision if moving brands because of all the cash they have invested in their current system, whatever it is.

Still, the fact that they were reviewing it at all shows how seriously they take it, they only review one camera a month, and as I say, it was a positive review.

Now then, I keep reading how everybody is polite on this forum, and that it's other 'non Pentax' users behaviour that makes this an unpleasant place at times, but I'm a bit confused.

You see, the posts added to this thread this morning show exactly what the problem is, and it isn't the people who are changing brands....

If feeb had wanted to be patronised, talked down to, condescended, be told to 'grow up' etc etc, then there are many places I'm sure she could have gone to. I really wouldn't have thought a photography forum would be one of them though, especially one that used to pride itself on being the 'friendly forum'...

There are true 8 bit TN panels nowadays, and 6 bit TN panels that use dithering to achieve 16.7m colours, just as there are 6 bit PVA panels that use dithering, but to be honest, the manufacturers employ a lot of smoke and mirrors with panels, and it's hard to know what to believe sometimes.

There are pro's and con's with TN vs PVA/IPS panels, which may or may not be of importance depending on what you are using your panel for (not to mention what your budget is). I think though, the main thing for photography work is to ensure that it is properly hardware calibrated so that the colours that were in the original photograph are represented on your screen in as accurate a way as possible.

I think for most users, and for most practical purposes, the difference between a half decent properly calibrated 6 and 8 bit panel wouldn't be noticeable.

That's not to say there aren't differences, but just that it's not something most people should worry about too much. Accurate colour rendition is far more important for photography use, and that is best achieved through a hardware calibration device and software, irrespective of the panel technology employed. The panel of course does come into it, there are both good and bad TN & PVA panels, but choosing a more expensive PVA/IPS panel doesn't guarantee a good monitor unfortunately. And that's before calibration is brought into the mix.

The following is a useful resource for anybody interested in some further reading regarding TFT technology; link

Sorry, I missed this question!

It's a Samsung SM2232 BW, known as the 'Samsung Pebble' in some markets. There is a non pebble design one too, that uses the exact same panel.

The calibration device I use is the Spyder 3 Pro, which I picked up for approximately £95.

Well, if it still manages to produce good images, and you can live with the focus ring stiffness (depends if you do much manual focussing I guess?), then I'd be inclined to live with it.

It might free up after a bit of use, but otherwise, off for a repair I guess?

Feel for you though, I'd be gutted!

Unless you're shooting very wide angle (less than 14mm or so) then you will be fine with Cokin 'P' style size filters.

Personally, I started off with a set of 0.3/0.6/0.9 ND Hard Edge Grads, and I've found little need for anything else with a 3 filter holder. I combine them to get whatever effect I desire/need.

If I was going for one filter, it would be the 0.6, but obviously that depends on what you are trying to achieve.

If you've considered Lee and Cokin filters, you should also consider Formatt filters. I've found them superior to Cokin, but haven't used Lee filters so can't legitimately compare.

I purhcased mine direct from the Formatt factory, £30 for the filters and a few more pounds for the holder/adaptor.

link

I'm also near Spalding, so if you wanted to borrow mine for a few days, feel free.