John - could just be that silypix works better with images shot on a particular model (or range of models), and similarly with PDCU4. Could be that silkypix have "filtered-out" the worst parts of the base program from those that work well with each model. I guess it all comes down to algorithms, and stuff!!

John - I think what most software companies do when they offer "bespoke" packages to (in this case) Ricoh Pentax, they tend to "lock-down" parts of the program, rather than totally re-write them, hence (if you know what you're doing) you can "unlock" those parts of the file to get them to work like the full package. It may only be one or two lines of extra instruction that needs embedded within the .exe file to do that.

I have some programs running on my pc that were trials, but by embedding a .lic (licence) file and/or one or two .dll's, the program not only functions like the real package, but it updates too.

For the negs, I'd personally use a very weak solution of soapy water, and dry them off with a film squeegee, in the same way that a film processing lab (or darkroom enthusiast) would have done. If the trannies are mounted, not too sure, but I'd guess at some sort of anti-static cleaner such as a small lens blower. Any residual dust and scratches can always be removed with your photo-editing software. I think a lot of the dedicated film/neg scanners on the market have tools to compensate for such eventualities anyway, John.

Yves - it takes a lot of courage to open your heart to what are frankly, "faceless names" here, and I applaud you for "reaching out". Nobody here can truly offer advice that would be beneficial to both your good lady, and yourself - we can only offer words of comfort. It is for you and your wife to come to terms with the situation, but I know from personal experience that when your mindset is as confused as what both of yours must be, it's always good to get another person's outlook on things. All I can say is; stick with the professionals - they are there to help you both cope with your situation. You have to be the "rock" for your wife, as she's obviously in a fragile and vulnerable state of mind right now. When you have moments when you feel that these emotions are trying to overwhelm you, always remember that there are others here thinking of you both!.. Keep your chin up, mate!!

I just found this link to something unusual to experience in Japan, which I'd honestly never heard of!!... It's the Tateyama - Kurobe road, which is entwined within snow-banks measuring about 20ft in height!! Surely worth a visit too??

Remove the battery now, then on Sunday the camera should be drained of any residual energy. Loading a fully-charged battery might give it a "kick" to get it working again. You could always try gently (not forcibly) pushing the lens towards its retracted position whilst simultaneously powering up the camera - sort of like "jump-starting" a car.

Try depressing the shutter button whilst the camera is switched off, then (whilst keeping the shutter button pressed) power up the camera. It might fool the camera into thinking you have just taken a bulb exposure. If it was the internal mechanism that's busted, you would hear a plasticky rattling when you shake it.

Algi/TT - there's nothing wrong with the orientation of the first 2 shots - Mallory Park has a couple of steep inclines!!

Welcome, Andy!!

By the sounds of things, this will be taking place indoors??.. If so, then find out what the internal lighting is, as fluorescent lighting creates a colour-cast. Set your camera up accordingly. Secondly, no doubt you will need flash to help cope with action shots in artificial lighting conditions, but I doubt you will have to take a load of group-shots with all 83 kids in the picture at one time, so group them out a wee bit. My own suggestion would be to use some sort of flash diffuser to widen the angle of light emitted from your flashgun, but I think that also means upping the light output - think of it as a 60W lightbulb in a small room, but needing a 100W bulb to give (close to) the same amount of light in a large lounge/dining room.

It might also be worth a trip to the place where it's all going to happen, as a pre-planning exercise.

Best of luck!.. And don't forget to come back on here with some of the results!

What I meant by "toned-down" was in reference to the "optical illusion" I feel it creates in portrait mode. The saturation looks pretty-well balanced though. Yes, you're right - 3 looks the best, IMHO.