It seems that I was able to run an Android emulator (Nox App Player) with Image Sync on my iMac and that will talk via Wifi to the camera ok. Ir will control the shutter. So I am nearly there. It's a shame that Image Sync is so limited, though. Ideally, I would like to set the sequence of ten exposures of say two minutes each and then go away for a cup of tea. The present system involves pressing a button to get a result. Never mind. The night, by definition, will be pretty clear and there are stars and things to look at with my binoculars.

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately there is more Windows stuff available than OS X. My urgent need is more for remote controlling the camera than for file transfer. You can't so much as cough in the vicinity when you are doing a five minute exposure, despite my highly expensive tracking mount.

The ks2 has Image Sync to enable control from iOS and Android but I would really like to control the camera from and download to my iMac directly. I can see and connect the camera when its wifi is enabled but nothing further. It needs some Linux commands, no doubt, to actually communicate. I am no longer savvy about these things.
Does anyone know of some suitable software? I could run to a PC laptop if really necessary.
There is a USB port but I have no clue how to do anything other than file transfer that way. (Same with the HDMI socket)

The camera exposure is fine. Pictures are not affected by my problem, as I mentioned earlier. The problem was entirely to do with the live view display. Once I cranked that brightness control down the problem went away.

Thanks for that suggestion. I looked at the setting and it was cranked up awful high. I probably did it on a very sunny day and forgot about it (in a tizwaz). As soon as the Moon is visible I will try to take its picture.

Thanks for the comments.
I have no problem with the actual exposure and the filter was a bit of red (grey?) herring. My 'best' with the fixed f6 is around 1/400s which is just what you'd expect for an object in full sunlight. When there's plenty of light (Moon and Solar pics - with appropriate filter of course!!!) I use minimal, ISO but for most star shots and deep space objects I use around ISO 800 and stack perhaps ten exposures. I am learning about this stuff and literally everything has to be right for an image of a Nebula or Galaxy. It has all the problems of normal photography and then you do it in the dark and cold and you probably don't know exactly where you are up there etc. etc.


PS Interesting that you can hardly see any craters 'cos the Sun is shining over our shoulders and there are no shadows visible. An interesting but slightly boring picture if you like craters.

I am really chuffed with my recent purchase of a KS2. Streets ahead of my K10D - which is still a nice camera.
I have a problem with it tho'. My main excuse for buying it was for Astrophotography and it has yielded some very good astro pictures with my 70-250mm zoom. I recently got myself a good (ED) 80mm refractor with 500mm focal length but I am having a problem using live view (which is excellent for normal pics). If I look at the the Moon (through a suitable neutral filter which makes optical viewing ok) the Moon image is burned out and far too bright and fuzzy to focus on. If I focus and lock first on a good bright star (using a focussing mask for extra fussiness) then the Moon Images are fine. How can I control the LV so that it can cope with the fixed f6 of the telescope? There is no aperture control, of course. People with other cameras with LV seem to have no trouble so I guess there must be a setting for it. I have tried all the Modes and they are all as bad as Manual.

Also there seems to be a problem also with finding stars with LV. LV gives me a noisy picture until it manages to recognise stars, at which point it shows them after a few seconds. That's very tiresome and makes setup long winded.

I suspect that I may have fooled around with a control but I can't remember what.

I should be grateful for some ideas about this.

Looks like I can't make a right decision!! lol

That ciss looks a very good idea - the cost per print becomes much more reasonable. The set up (on UTube) looks a bit Heath Robinson but, if you don't need to move the printer, that wouldn't put me off.
As far as photo quality is concerned, the Cannon range seems to be in favour in the reviews on the Web.
Problem now is that my printer has started working again (it seemed to need a night's sleep) but I have now got the idea of a better printer in my mind. I expect the hp will play up again before too ling and give me a real excuse to boot it out.

My hp5550 printer has given up the ghost. For years it has produced some really good A4 colour prints. Vibrant colours plus subtle tones when they're needed and they look a pretty good match to the imac screen pictures. I used the tri-colour and photo cartridge.

I have read of the hp 'cartridge zone' problem so perhaps I should avoid hp now. Epson used to have a good name for photo quality although one I had in the past never impressed me.

Has anyone bought a colour printer recently and could they comment on quality and value (and ink useage)?

Cheers chaps.

Hmm. Iweb can be used on any webspace with ftp access but there is a lot that it won't do when it's part of me.com. Probably no real use to me. Shame