The Vivitar could actually be in a Konica mount, or something other than Pentax K.

If you provide us with some images of the mount of the lens, we would be more suited to figure out why you do not seem to be able to get it working.
Just remember to get it in focus, and include a good view of the lever (the most important part). Crop the image to only show the mount, and post it here. I can't remember the size restrictions right now, but 800 on the long end is usually fine.

You would honestly be suprised how many different kind of lenses that can be used on the K5. Personally my main lens for landscape is a Zuiko, and for portraits it is a Leitz, go figure.

I only mentioned the m50 as an example. I will do the same for different 135mm primes aswell, and those I might use for different applications.
Imagine street photography, and instead of people trying to dodge me, as they see me point a big arse lens in their face, they are struck by curiosity. Simply because I stick a small old 28mm prime, with step down ring, and a cute tiny 30mm tulip on the end


@riley, Here is an example of my issue with the m50.


Original hoods are based loosely on the 135mm standard, and I say loosely because often they are not even ideal for that purpose

@Spotmetre, You will have to give me some time to understand that post

Back to the drawing board.

The data from O'Connell can not be used for this, it is simply not correct.

Any suggestions on how to do this?

For starters I want to find the maximum step-down before vignetting.
What can I use to achieve this?
A piece of paper, made black by coal on both sides, with a circular hole of different sizes does not seem to do the trick. (For some reason it is almost like I can see through the paper...)
What aperture and focal length would be most ideal to spot the vignetting creeping in?

The second part will be a tulip shaped clip-on hood I will get molded.
But for this I need really good data. Original lens design prefered.

Maybe there are other people who might have found other ways to simplify this process

If it worked for you in PSP X2, then the only thing I can think of, even though a bit troublesome, is to load those throubled images into PSP, remove PF, and export them.
Then load them into whatever prefered software you use now.
(You could probably automate this process aswell.)
However first I would suggest to test out the option in LR4.1, and see if it is enough for you or not.

We could compare it to lenses.
What you are after is one that covers everything, something like the Fujinon 101 for your camera.
But isn't it better to just use the tool that you find most dedicated to the given task instead?

Adobe probably can never do what you love from PSP, simply because patents prevent them.
[edit]I can post an image later, of my heaviest PF situation on any lens I own, and I challenge you to correct it Matt

Found it.

No idea how it got there, and it was so tiny there is no wonder I missed it on the first inspection of the sensor.

My test was also not done with a small enough aperture (thanks for that Mike, I had no idea). It explains why I had not noticed it earlier aswell. I seldom shoot smaller than f5.6.

I did however also notice 4 small dots on the sensor, dust specs or not, I dunno. They are a bit a part, and 'glued' on, because a little bit of wind wasn't able to get them moving.


The comparisons of different copies of the 16-50 is still something I am curious about. I have yet to test this copy thoroughly, but sometimes I feel it is a bit soft. However I have no idea if it is abnormally so, or not.
(The lens is still within the warranty period, so if I find something I can get it exhanged.)

With some of my lenses I have big issues with this, sadly I have not come across a perfect solution either.

I am using LR4.1, and that 'Remove Chromatic Aberration' button have never done anything for me. The eye drop tool to select colour to defringe does help a bit though, but not exceptionally well either.

Hopefully there are some solutions in PS that I have yet to come across that allows for more detailed localized corrections
(If anyone knows how to select a localized area, and only defringe in that area in PS, please enlighten me.)


For now I do what I can to correct it before I even take the image.
I know more or less on the dot, in what lighting, and at what aperture and focal range my own lenses will show sign of fringing or colour cast.

The best suggestion I have is to get to know your lenses, and if you really want to shoot in a range where the lens produces PF, see if you can shoot on a less contrasty background.

(Someone threw in the idea that a Haze-2A filter could help. Now why would that supposedly help?)

I discovered something rather unstartling when I came back home to review my photos (it was too bright outside, so I couldn't spot it on the screen).

This is a cutout from the 1.1 square (3x3 grid) of my image.



What is it?

My thought is that it is something that have gotten inside the lens.
Because after I spoted it, I checked the mirror, the sensor, and cleaned the front and back elements of the lens. Took a test-image, and same issue.
I also tried with another lens, and nothing there.


Also, do anyone have any 'test-images' of what kind of sharpness I should be able to reach with a good copy of the lens wide open?
I have never really come across comparisons of different copies of the same lens before, only a single copy compared to a completely different lens.

This test can be done by stepping 3 meters away from a piece of paper with a bunch of different sized letters on it. And take images at 16mm, 20, 28, 35, and 50mm.

There is no reason it should not focus to infinity,
but if it has been reassembled they could easily have done a mistake when putting it back together.

The easiest way to spot this is to look if the focus ring is aligned correctly.
If it isn't then that is evidence that it have been taken apart, and not put together correctly.

Don't feel disheartened, it is not a big job to get it working again.
It might take you some trial and error though, so be prepared for that.

The mistake of putting it wrongly together is just missing the correct inner thread.

If you find out that it needs to be reassembled, it is just to ask, and I can provide you with instructions.
I just hope my M50/1.7 is a compatible object for instructions

When regarding the K-5 and cold temperatures, I don't think you have to worry.
If you keep it free of any kind of moisture (watch your breathing...) you should be fine. The issue is just if you get ice on it, and forget to take precautions when taking it indoors. If you are really unlucky, your screen will go.

Paul, external battery supply will not really help that much.
Every battery that I know of have a very bad efficiency in cold weather.
Just look at how useless smartphones are outside in -15C.

My best advice for long trips outside with cold weather (remember that open sky and wind makes it colder than measured) is to take spare batteries and heat packs.

Normally a LiPo battery might claim it have 5% power left, but ones it comes inside with around 20C it is back to 70% power.
You can mimic this effect with heat packs. Take a few packs with you and keep them with your spare batteries. These are now tempered, and when the one in the camera stops, change, and put the 'depleted' battery with the heat pack and it will be back up to 70% in no time.

Fun idea.
Stuey you have to remember that it is just a prototype, but still your images would look awsome.

Reason being that the shutter seems to be controlled by an accelerometer, that triggers when there is no more movement.
As in the moment the ball hits your face