DA 12-24 + K5 for Northern Lights
Posted 20/09/2012 - 23:04 - Helpful Comment
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1. Just count the stop differences, and you have it.
2. Personally I try not to go over 1600, but I am sure that others might find 3200 perfectly acceptable.
(Drop by your local camera store, and take with you your k20d, one of your own lenses, and do comparable shots to find out what you would think personally.)
When it comes to the Northern Lights, it is tricky really. It depends on its speed and intensity. You also have to think what you want out of the image. If you want high details on a fast moving light, you really would benefit a lot from a quick shutter and bright glass. (Think timelapse.)
I soo want to convert a Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for stuff like this
Tip:
Check out Ole C. Salomonsen's work regarding this subject.
2. Personally I try not to go over 1600, but I am sure that others might find 3200 perfectly acceptable.
(Drop by your local camera store, and take with you your k20d, one of your own lenses, and do comparable shots to find out what you would think personally.)
When it comes to the Northern Lights, it is tricky really. It depends on its speed and intensity. You also have to think what you want out of the image. If you want high details on a fast moving light, you really would benefit a lot from a quick shutter and bright glass. (Think timelapse.)
I soo want to convert a Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for stuff like this
Tip:
Check out Ole C. Salomonsen's work regarding this subject.
Posted 21/09/2012 - 07:14
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SnoozeMoose wrote:
1. Just count the stop differences, and you have it.
Hm... 2.0 - 2.8 - 4 = two stops. In other words I will need ISO 1600 with the DA 12-24mm to end up with identical exposure? (My lack of photographic basic knowledge suddenly becomes apperent)1. Just count the stop differences, and you have it.
SnoozeMoose wrote:
I soo want to convert a Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for stuff like this
Here in Norway the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 is a favourite amongst Canikon Northern Light photographers. The Samyang 14mm f2.8 is also popular here.I soo want to convert a Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for stuff like this
Bjørn
Posted 21/09/2012 - 08:21 - Helpful Comment
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You've done the maths OK. The K-5 performs very well, have a look at the EPZ test and you'll be able to see the ISO results for yourself.
I just don't worry about the ISO value, if I need the higher settings I just use them regardless. Some picture is better than no picture and the K-5 is better than anything else I've seen so far.
I just don't worry about the ISO value, if I need the higher settings I just use them regardless. Some picture is better than no picture and the K-5 is better than anything else I've seen so far.
Best regards, John
Posted 21/09/2012 - 08:50 - Helpful Comment
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bjolester wrote:
2. What is the max ISO on the K5 before image quality suffers?
Bjørn
I have had some pretty good results at 12800 with PP noise reduction.
2. What is the max ISO on the K5 before image quality suffers?
Bjørn
Posted 21/09/2012 - 10:30
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johnriley wrote:
You've done the maths OK. The K-5 performs very well, have a look at the EPZ test and you'll be able to see the ISO results for yourself.
I just don't worry about the ISO value, if I need the higher settings I just use them regardless. Some picture is better than no picture and the K-5 is better than anything else I've seen so far.
Your review of the K5 is very instructive with regards to my questions here about ISO performance. Thank you for pointing this out!You've done the maths OK. The K-5 performs very well, have a look at the EPZ test and you'll be able to see the ISO results for yourself.
I just don't worry about the ISO value, if I need the higher settings I just use them regardless. Some picture is better than no picture and the K-5 is better than anything else I've seen so far.
I have consciously not read many reviews of the K5, to avoid temptation, but now I feel that it is time to move forward. The K20D is quite brilliant for many types of photography, but when it comes to low-light/night photography, it does not really perform as well as many newer DSLRs. I am waiting anxiously to see what kind of price drop there will be here on the K5 now that the new models arrive
Bjørn
Posted 21/09/2012 - 13:17 - Helpful Comment
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Hi Bjørn,
1000 is the max iso I find myself using on K-5 without worrying about image quality. Occasionally I do use 1600 or 3200, but then you got to work it out quite a bit in PP.
1000 is the max iso I find myself using on K-5 without worrying about image quality. Occasionally I do use 1600 or 3200, but then you got to work it out quite a bit in PP.
Posted 21/09/2012 - 13:31 - Helpful Comment
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Bjørn, I think you will need to have a play and decide what level of noise is acceptable to you.
I don't want to spend time sorting out noise, so like Kingfisher I rarely go very high.
You may need to decide whether to go for longer exposures rather than higher ISOs for your Lights.
Reasonable chance of you seeing them tonight btw (if the weather is kind) .
I don't want to spend time sorting out noise, so like Kingfisher I rarely go very high.
You may need to decide whether to go for longer exposures rather than higher ISOs for your Lights.
Reasonable chance of you seeing them tonight btw (if the weather is kind) .
Posted 21/09/2012 - 14:42
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kingfisher wrote:
Hi Bjørn,
1000 is the max iso I find myself using on K-5 without worrying about image quality. Occasionally I do use 1600 or 3200, but then you got to work it out quite a bit in PP.
It is interesting to hear other people´s experience with the K5, I will keep this in mind!Hi Bjørn,
1000 is the max iso I find myself using on K-5 without worrying about image quality. Occasionally I do use 1600 or 3200, but then you got to work it out quite a bit in PP.
Gwyn wrote:
Bjørn, I think you will need to have a play and decide what level of noise is acceptable to you.
I don't want to spend time sorting out noise, so like Kingfisher I rarely go very high.
You may need to decide whether to go for longer exposures rather than higher ISOs for your Lights.
Reasonable chance of you seeing them tonight btw (if the weather is kind) .
Yes, once my K5 purchase materializes I will need to find out what level of noise is acceptable to me. Bjørn, I think you will need to have a play and decide what level of noise is acceptable to you.
I don't want to spend time sorting out noise, so like Kingfisher I rarely go very high.
You may need to decide whether to go for longer exposures rather than higher ISOs for your Lights.
Reasonable chance of you seeing them tonight btw (if the weather is kind) .
There was in fact a brief spell of NL earlier this week, possibly on Tuesday evening, but I did not get a chance to take any photos. But it was good to see some of that "green magic" on the skies again. I grew up in the Stavanger, in the south of Norway, and in Stavanger I cannot remember ever having seen any Northern Lights. So I am as excited as any tourist/visitor when the Northern Lights appear here in Trondheim (the middle of Norway). I will keep my eyes open tonight for NL if the weather permits
Posted 21/09/2012 - 20:31
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Hi Bjorn, if you get your K5 soon, I would be really interested in learning how you get on with it photographing the aurora. I have a trip planned in Feb 2013 to Abisko in northern sweden with the objective of photographing the aurora. I have a K5 and I'm looking to get a fast prime to go with it for the trip. Temps in abisko can go as low as -20c overnight and Pentax tell me the k5 is only rated to -15! Not sure what the nighttime temps are where you are, but really keen to gather any hints and tips to make the most of my trip, so looking forward to hearing how you get on.
I'm sure other forum members would be keen to see images, so keep us posted and good luck!
Paul
I'm sure other forum members would be keen to see images, so keep us posted and good luck!
Paul
K3ii, DA16-85, DA35mm Limited, FA77mm Limited, 55mm f1.8 K, 135mm f3.5 M, DA300, DA 1.4 HD TC,
DA16-45, Sigma 15mm f2.8. Cosina 100mm f3.5 macro
DA16-45, Sigma 15mm f2.8. Cosina 100mm f3.5 macro
Posted 21/09/2012 - 20:38
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Paul, my K-5 has been down to -20C, in an ice/snow storm and survived just fine. Make sure you have a couple of spare batteries, and keep them close to your body so they keep warm.
Posted 22/09/2012 - 08:07
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Hi Gwyn and at the risk of a slight hijack of Bjorn's thread, that was exactly the type of real world feedback I'm looking for, thanks for that. I guess the difference is that the camera will be static on a tripod for maybe up to hours (if I get lucky!) so plenty of time to chill. Spare batteries definitely on the agenda, may even make an external battery DC supply.
Paul
Paul
K3ii, DA16-85, DA35mm Limited, FA77mm Limited, 55mm f1.8 K, 135mm f3.5 M, DA300, DA 1.4 HD TC,
DA16-45, Sigma 15mm f2.8. Cosina 100mm f3.5 macro
DA16-45, Sigma 15mm f2.8. Cosina 100mm f3.5 macro
Posted 22/09/2012 - 10:30
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I was out on deck in -15C and lower for hours with no ill effects either. The Northern lights photos I took were over a 4 hour period at about -10C.
Just be careful taking the camera back into the warm.
Just be careful taking the camera back into the warm.
Posted 22/09/2012 - 14:13
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The acceptable amount of noise varies a great deal depending on the type of shot you are doing and the exposure. One quick rule of thumb: if you nail the exposure you can use a higher ISO so long as you don't have big expanses of solid colour that will highlight the noise.
I am happy going to ISO 800 on the K20D without using PP noise reduction. Beyond that I use Noise Ninja, but many other packages now do a good job.
My experience with the K-5 is that you get an extra two stops for your money.
But like I say it is all contingent on the type of shooting.
I am happy going to ISO 800 on the K20D without using PP noise reduction. Beyond that I use Noise Ninja, but many other packages now do a good job.
My experience with the K-5 is that you get an extra two stops for your money.
But like I say it is all contingent on the type of shooting.
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981 posts
16 years
Trondheim,
Norway
My plan now is to save up funds for a K5 and a wider lens. The first lens on my "wish-list" is the DA 12-24. I do not have any experience with the K5, so therefore the following questions:
On the K20D I used ISO 400 and the FA 24mm wide open (f2.0). This setting functioned well with the 6-12 seconds exposures I employed.
1. How high ISO would one need with the 12-24mm wide open (f4.0), based on my K20D settings?
2. What is the max ISO on the K5 before image quality suffers?
I am grateful for any advice on this matter!
Bjørn
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