Think you need to explain the sunny 16 rule

To the OP Stuey has summed up the issue, it doesn't matter which metering mode you try if the light levels from dark to bright are outside of the cameras dynamic range, which at base iso 80 is a maximum of 14 stops...

whilst you're in spot metering check out the range you're trying to capture by metering the brightest part of the scene, usually just to the side of the sun (not directly at it !!) and noting the shutter speed, then spot meter the darkest part/shadow area and note the shutter speed.. then work out how many stops between them, more than 14 and it's HDR or NDgrads as Stuey mentions

Simon

Great stuff.. whilst not exactly the same I'm going to be having a go at Star Trails/nightscapes once the nights get darker

The different light at certain points in the foreground, was that passing vehicles etc or did you do a little bit of light painting?

Simon

Thanks for the mention Stuey..and just for the record we're not related I've sent a PM as I don't want to be seen to be canvasing on the forum

Simon

In my experience you normally find that they already have a figure in mind, ask them what they normally pay and take it from there.. the calculators that Cabstar recommends are good guidance once they give you a figure.

Simon

I'm with Hiscox, paid £106 taken up through "policybee", very comprehensive and reasonable costs for my requirements

Simon

Forgot to mention that I think the sky colour looks a bit weird in the last shot, are they all HDR or just the first two & last.. 3 & 4 do seem to have a different look to them

Simon

Very nice set Shaun, 4th one is my pick, I feel it's the best balanced and the mud channel works nicely as a lead in to the main subject, the boat obviously

Simon

If you're using NDgrads on a crop sensor, which obviously all us Pentax digital photographers are then Hard grads are the way to go. The graduation line isn't anywhere near as visible as you might think and only really becomes evident at UWA focal lengths, although I use it at 12mm and don't have issues.

Personally I don't really see any benefit to having soft grads on crop sensors, I've never used mine Save some cash and don't bother with a 1 stop either, a 2 & 3 stop will cover pretty much everything you need.

Stuey.. just bought a reverse NDgrad myself although havene't had chance to use it yet, they are a tad expensive, I went for the Hitech one

I've owned a few primes (FA 50mm F2, DA40mm F2.8, DA15mm, DA 35mm) and to be honest haven't really been wowed by any of them in comparison to the DA17-70 or DA12-24... the DA15mm I had was probably the nearest to impressing me, great colour/contrast but my copy had too much distortion at the edges.

I think, as already has been said, moving from kit lens to any of the better quality zooms/primes will produce a noticeable improvement, I'm really not convinced, as yet, that moving from quality zoom to prime will... I'm seriously toying with the idea of the FA31mm that's on sale now though thinking it might change my mind, unfortunately for landscapes it isn't an ideal range for me on the K5 crop sensor

Simon