All Forum Comments
Comment by RR posted on Relative Enlargement Sizes at 10/12/2008 - 22:56
Next year, we are planning to launch some three types, including minor design
change versions, of single-lens reflex (SLR) cameras.
This could mean their launching cameras in 3 different sectors & that the new SLR is only a minor design change.
This would fit in with the rumoured Medium format sensor that's been long in development & also the K20d upgrade with GPS built in.
Of course rumours are unreliable by nature. Whatever is released I hope it's a worthwhile upgrade & is properly advertised, the growth of Pentax will benefit us all.
Comment by RR posted on 3 new K's next year at 10/12/2008 - 22:15
- THIS COMPARISON - got me thinking, I know the 10-17 is less fishy at the long end, but does it still retain the greater FOV in comparison to rectilinear super wides ?
Comment by RR posted on The difference between 10, 12 and 16? at 10/12/2008 - 18:53
Although there are a few mugs around still, they're getting harder to find.
Comment by RR posted on Samsung 12-24mm f4 D-Xenon (Pentax DA12-24 clone) at 10/12/2008 - 13:20
The in me wants to start a bogus ebay account & buy it now on both of them. I'd be disappointed that I couldn't see their face when the ebay bill arrives though !
Comment by RR posted on Hope springs eternal at 10/12/2008 - 13:09
I've ordered a cheap chinese split prism focusing screen off ebay, when it arrives I'll let you know if it's any good.
Comment by RR posted on Playing with my telescope at 09/12/2008 - 23:31
This should work a treat, try not to ruin the ruse by instantly bringing up a bookmark & ordering one though.
Comment by RR posted on Impressed with K20D at 09/12/2008 - 22:44
It's higher pixel density that causes noise. I was going to start explaining it, but found this on the net & it sums up what I was gonna say - so I've taken the lazy copy & paste option.
Full frame is 36mm x 24mm
APS-C is roughly 22.2mm x 14.8mm
I say 'roughly' because the size of an APS-C sensor can be slightly different between camera manufacturers, though the difference is negligible.
Given that you have a 10mpx camera, one at Full Frame, one at APS-C, the full frame camera will provide the best result in low-light. This is because the same amount of pixels are spread out over a larger area, which allows some spacebetween each pixels.
This is good because when each pixel is placed further from each other, it is less likeley that the electrical charges 'spill' from one pixel to another - this is more prevalent when using high ISO speeds.
When the pixels are placed closer to each other, there is more chance that the adjacent pixel will be receiving electrical 'spillage' from the adjacent pixel when the ISO is turned up.
Long exposures and/or high ISO's increase the sensitivity of the sensor so if you do either or both of these, it increases the chances of 'noise' appearing in your pictures. This is why when engaging either of these two methods - a camera with a full frame sensor, or comparitively a camera with a lower pixel density (x number of pixels over larger sensor area) will have a cleaner, less noisy picture than a camera with a higher density of pixels (x number of pixels over a smaller sensor area).
Hope this helps your understanding Matt. One thing I would add though, is that APS would provide an advantage in the studio as it gives greater depth of field than a FF equivalent. This is not so good when trying to isolate subjects in an uncontrolled environment by throwing the background out of focus. In the studio however the background is controlled & therefore greater DOF is an advantage.
Ok 2 things to add - Some pros are using the Olympus E3 which has a crop factor of 2 over FF & this really suffers from noise at high iso. but is delivering excellent results in the studio at base iso.
Ok 3 I think the megapixel race will thankfully start to slow shortly as sensors are starting to out resolve all but the best lenses. Affordable glass will be the limiting factor in Image Quality terms for hobbyist photography over the next few years I think.
Comment by RR posted on Full Frame? at 09/12/2008 - 22:40
I am tempted by the Tamron, as it is still very good value at well under £50 delivered. Still over £100 most places.
It is heavier, but then again I am seriously considering a 70-200 f2.8 instead of the 50-135 so it'd still be my lightweight option, plus it'll have that extra reach. By the sounds of it, it'll be some time til they get more Pentax stock if at all !
Looking around at reviews it does seem to suffer from CA quite a bit in the usual conditions, but as I only shoot raw I'll have an opportunity to reduce/remove it. On the plus side there are some very nice images from it on flickr & Photosig (plus the usual tat)
Comment by RR posted on Pentax 50-200mm f/4-5.6 DA ED at 09/12/2008 - 17:00
If you're into manual focus then Pentax is a great choice for you. Many excellent old manual lenses can be picked up cheaply on ebay, I picked up a 50mm f1.7 for £15 & the focus ring is excellent, very well weighted & damped to use. All K mount lenses will work on the K20d & all the even older m42 screw fits will too, with an adapter.
Comment by RR posted on No K20D's available to try out at 09/12/2008 - 16:10


Being a complete Canadian amature, I get my prints at the pharmacey, and can only relate to 4x6, 5x7, 8x10 inch sizes. I've never had the opportunity to splurge for 16x20.
Printing at other ratios will result in either distortion or unwanted cropping (depending how your pharmacy prints). For example printing 8x10 will result in the sides of the picture being cropped off (if in landscape orientation) or the whole width of the image being squashed together.
If printing at 7x5 for instance you'll need to make sure your image to be printed is in the ratio of 7:5. Or you'll be left with a print with bits missing compared to your original.
If you have a normal uncropped image, the best thing to do is print at compatible print sizes - eg: 6x4 9x6 12x8 etc. (all variations of 3x2)
I find a better way of cropping small amounts is to paint a white section over the part to be cropped off. This way you're print will come back in the original dimension but with a white square which you can then physically crop off with a guillotine. Not ideal for framing though.