De nada, sometimes I can contribute something to the community... Not often, but sometimes

I blame almost, but not quite, buying an APS camera, being seduced by the 'cool' of it. The fact that the higher end cameras could encode magnetic information onto the film, and the fact that processed films came with a contact sheet and small copies of the pictures as standard.

Then I looked at the Zenith I had and figured I'd stick with 35mm *laughs*

As in, the Sensors are the same size as the ill fated Kodak APS Film.

Launched as the next best thing to sliced bread, the Advanced Photo System featured a cartridge that would be able to wind itself in, then advance back to the right place if removed from the camera.

The APS film supported three different aspect ratios
APS-H 'Hi-Def; at 16:9
APS-C 'Classic' at 3:2
APS-P 'Panoramic' at 3:1

APS-C is approx 25.1mm × 16.7mm, and (possibly due to an abortive attempt by Nikon, Canon etc to create APS format film SLRs, and therefore had lenses and research already invested in the form factor) happens to be about the same size as the majority of Digital SLR sensors.

The APS format itself died a death in 2004, due to the lack of Pro take up (smaller film stock then 35mm), expense of early camera's compared to 110's, and P&S 35mm's, and generally, coming a bit too late to be worth it.

More info can be gleaned here - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Photo_System

Hey, it's on wikipedia, it must be true, right?

I'd hazard that a majority of these shots were taken in the US, and from personal experience, their thunder storms tend to be longer lasting, and of a different flavour to UK thunder storms.

An electrical storm in Tampa took about an hour to roll out to sea from well inland, and had some incredible cloud to cloud lightening strikes. Looking back, I wish I had my K10d, but, that was some 15 years ago *laughs*

Put another way, the storms tend to longer and more vivid in the America's (and probably Australia and other 'tropical' climes), so you can risk picking your framing and waiting, and still be pretty much guarenteed a lightening strike to occur in your field of view.

I'm glad you're back, the forum would be a poorer place without you.

Which shouldn't be a problem unless you're computer is a 486 or possibly an early Pentium...

Manual focus on the selector by the lens, and 'M' on the dial will take a shot no matter what the auto focus indicator thinks.

As said previously, the 'Action' setting is an entry level feature, like you'd get on a P&S, that will automatically bias the exposure to a fast shutter priority. On a Pentax, that 'Tv' mode allows you to set the shutter to your desired speed, and let the camera work out the aperture itself.

I've just checked, and Focus set to 'M' with Av or Tv modes and the shutter will fire immediately.

The general opinion with the Pentax Camera, is that it imposes far fewer restraints on the shooter then other camera marques, due to the lack of 'scene modes'. It does, however, mean that you need to know how to use the various settings of the camera to get the best result for the type of shot you are taking. It's a camera that rewards you getting to know it.

Because like most men, we hate being wrong

Or, to put it another way, Distance = GN / f-number, right?

So at ISO 100, a Guide Number of 48 at f8 would give a range of 6 Metres?

I would think not, but then, I may be wrong. It would be like taking a bright torch, and having your mate shine it on a subject from 30 metres, and then shining it from 6 metres, while you stay in the same place.

The subject will appear washed out to you at 6m, but at 30m should look ok.

*Edit*

I expect there's some kind of formula for it, but... I don't know it!

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