On the KP (assume similar for others) , you can change the function of the green button under the e dial programing in the button customisation. The '--' option disables it

Sorry I made a mistake, I thought that metering mode was one of the options for the FX buttons but it's actually meter lock.
I forgot that it can be changed by smart dial. I rarely change my smart dial from ISO

Cant speak for K70, but the KP does not have dedicated button for metering. You can customise the function of most the buttons so you can set another button to to do the job. The Quick menu is customizable so you can set it to be one of the options in there (if its not already one i cant remember). I opt for the latter and find that works for my needs

David

I currently have both. I have not done any straight comparison shot but feel Image quality wise ithe K1 has a slight adavantage but do not feel the difference is significant. What i feel does work in the K1's advantage is how the focus falls of as a result of larger sensor, on the other hand it can be nice to get the larger depth of field with out using a tripod on the KP

Like youself i am not sure if i can justify keeping both. I enjoy using the KP as its smaller, I mostly use it with the LTD lenses which makes the whole system light to use. There is currently no wide angle ltd lens for the K1 so i find myself using the DFA zooms which are quite bulky in comparison. Unfortunatley due to the pandemic if have not had chance to test the K1 as much as i would like too, especialy for stuff like portaiture.

It's a nice shot, I like both light amd composition. Glad you had success with it

I have the K-P and at one point alos had the K-3 but sold the latter as it was not used so much. The K-P is much smaller in the hand than the K-3, the body is shorter and its a bit lighter. The dials are all easy to access and i find the 3rd dial usefull. There are lots of options to customize the buttons to suit your preferances. You can also customize the control panel menu to give you quick acces to things you change most.

I find it very comfatble to use with primes like the LTD series, Less so with heavier zooms like the 16-50. I dont find the larger grip to be benficial. I find myself holding the camera slighlty diffrently (so it sits in the plam of hand) to how i would hold the K-3.

I dont think there is a huge difference in image qualty below 1600, above that there is a significant differnce.

I Have enjoyed using the 35 F1.4 Nokton on my M9, Its small and light a bit like the DA 21mm but with a tab for focusing. Images form it seem to have good contrast. Have not had as much use of it as i would like as i only got it before ther great plague struck. Used to have Voiglander 21mm Color Skopar which was quite cheap (for a leica lens), felt good., seemed to vignette a bit but that wil be less of an issue on GXR. It was a bit to wide on the M9 though.
Some of the longer Leica lens like 90mm can be a bit got a bit cheaper
The zeiss lens are a bit more expensive but compared to Leica counterparts are a bit of bargin.

You can get histogram in live view, there is option to tick on page 5 of menu under live view. For some reason the histogram will not show when focus peaking is on!

I went, had good time. Enjoyed the work shops and talks I attended. Nice to meet some other Pentax users.
Thanks to SRS/Pentax for putting it on

One thing I would add to what others have already said Keep camera level to keep the verticals vertical. The camera will most likley have a digtail level to indicate if is level or not.
Also braketing and HDR can be usfull if the window is in the frame to balance exposure