His prices have always been good. the trouble is descriptions are often sketchy & goods fail to arrive all too often.
I've used him around half a dozen times, and twice had something small missing from the order. Last time neither of the items ordered arrived - when chased he sent a couple of e-mails saying he was out of the office & would investigate on his return. Since then he hasn't bothered replying.

I won't use him again.
I used to mention him when people at the workshop are after cheap bits, but I won't do that anymore either.

This is the case with practically all mirror lenses. You can of course adjust shutter speed with ND filters as well as play with the ISO.
IIRC TAV mode with auto ISO should work OK for getting the settings you want.

It's supposed to work in places where there is an extreme difference in brightness. So it can combine shadow detail from the longer shot, with highlight detail from the shortest shot. Stain glass windows in old churches during the day are an ideal example of where it works well. I don't see any reason to be using it here, and any wind blowing the branches around will mess up the shot...

In many cases simply preventing the highlights from blowing out, then pulling up the shadow detail will work just fine. There is a bit more control to the HDR process if doing it in post, but all too often that's used to spoil the images!

In tight spaces I often find I need wider lenses (or panoramic stitching) but have also found places where a Telephoto is wanted to shoot something more distant that can only be seen through a gap between buildings...

I don't normal use my widest option in narrow streets, the 360° FOV could be effective but it's a bit of a pain to set up. The 10-17 does get used as have options with a 300mm+ equivalence.

Great shots (as always) George.
I've never been to Cadwell, but I'd heard of it's little jump, shown to good effect here.

Pan tilt heads have always seemed very clumsy to me. I use a fluid head for long lenses/telescopes, and a pistol grip for lighter work (Like a ball head but locks in place as soon as you release the grip). Both allow reasonably fast subject acquisition, with good control.

It definitely depends on how the image is being used. If it's reportage & the title includes it's location then it's clearly miss-representing it. But if it's just an artistic view of a nameless street, then there's no harm & strengthening the composition is worthwhile.

Fantastic shot & a good explanation to go with it.
I'd heard the milky way was best shot from the far side of the world. where it's center is visible in the dark hours. Obviously I shouldn't give up trying just because of that.
We certainly don't such dramatic foreground subjects along the east coast, but a view of the milky way should at least be possible

So it is! It can be a pain where characters get changed into smilies, maybe I should just learn to use brackets less, but I'm sure they'd still manage to mix up messages....

Yes the budget line QR plates are a real pain.
The adapter was an Adaptall2 to PK which I've never seen advertised at under £4 (e-bay currently have them from $16 to $40, or simpler third party versions around $. So yes easily worth the money, especially when the lens has a rather good reputation.