You can tether Pentaxes using the free program for windows PKTether (not available for iOS or Android AFAIK).

I use it a lot to take long sequences of 150 - 180 second RAW exposures in bulb mode for astrophotography on my K5, but it would certainly work for less specialised uses. I can set PASM mode (incl B), set the self timer, specify an exposure length and number of exposures, control bracketing, exposure compensation, select RAW or JPEG, select where I save the files on the PC and a host of other stuff. And its free. Whats not to like? I believe you can also set AF/MF but can't swear to that since I always shoot MF for Astro.

Paul

Not if you have a UV filter fitted.....

Paul

Cor...that's really nice. Never seen either the LX 2000 or the 1.2 special.
Thanks for posting.

Paul

Got an MZ-5n going spare. PM me if interested.

Paul

Having just got a monopod to use with the DA300, that's a flipping good question I had not thought of...Johns answer sounds sensible to me!
Interested in any other views..
Paul

Just a thought - since you were on a tripod, you did turn SR off didn't you? Won't help with front or back focussing, but might explain the slight lack of sharpness. Apologies if you have this covered...

Paul

Must admit I'm currently more likely to stay with my (purchased) LR5. I really don't like this whole Adobe subscription model. Is LR6 (when it appears going to be "subscription only"? Anyone know?

Paul

Top tip David, thanks for that - I also have Hitech filters.

Paul

Fantastic shot! Thanks for sharing.

Paul

Good article, thanks for posting.
For wide field work (aurora / milky way) I like my Sigma 15mm f2.8. Bit of a niche choice, but worked very well for aurora the other year, sharp right to edge of frame wide open.
Apart from the aurora / milky way and general starfields, most other objects are small and faint. They therefore require significant magnification. At this point you have to track somehow for the longer exposures to resolve fainter objects.
Now all sorts of complexities rear their heads, like tracking accuracy and light pollution.
The standard solution to this is a computerised mount, a wide field refractor, possibly with a field flattener, and some very dark skies to avoid light pollution. This is all getting very expensive.
You'd also need to become very familiar with deep sky stacker, 32 bit images and stretching histograms.
As an alternative to an OGPS-1, I've re-animated a barndoor mount I made back in the film era, and am playing around with that at the mo. I'll see whether I can track reliably with something like a 200mm + lens, and if I get anywhere I'll post some results. Don't hold your breath!
Good luck whatever you decide. I'm interested in whether you can get reasonable results on a home made tracker with a long lens. If it works, I may start to have expensive thoughts involving a DA300. I can't justify a conventional telescope and mount because I wouldn't use it enough, whereas a DA300 would have other uses than astrophotography.
Cheers
Paul