Likewise thanks Norris.

Thanks for the comments.

They do appear from time to time, but sell quickly. I had to step back from the last one because I am in negotiations for another one. I have now missed five, one way or another. Good luck.

It went off topic a bit before I posted. I was trying to dispel some of the myths about batteries and reinforce some of the precautions.

My two pennorth. (30 years served electronics engineer, use a lot of rechargeables in my other hobby - flying model aircraft).

1/. Be careful with Lithium batteries. Charge them using the proper charger, don't short them out and don't physically damage them. The following is an example of an unhappy Lithium battery (albeit a little bigger than the ones in our cameras, the principle is still the same). Clicky.

Although I would not advocate using a different voltage for one moment, there is usually some tolerance. The nature of rechargeables is that when they are fully charged their voltage is somewhat above nominal, but as they discharge they quickly drop back to nominal and stay there for some time, before dropping off. I haven't put a voltmeter across my camera battery, but My RC transmitter has one on the display. It is powered by 8 NiMH cells which give a nominal voltage of 9.6. When first turned on after charging, it is not uncommon to see it reading 11.3V, which it is obviously designed to handle as it is still working after seven years.

Looking at the example above, 2s Li (two Lithiums connected in series) gives 7.4V. 6s NiMH gives 7.2V. In the real world I'd be gobsmacked if the equipment connected to them noticed any difference.

2/. Almost all modern batteries will deliver the current required, so the Amperage is not an issue.

3/. As to the capacity, mAh (milli Amp hours), this simply determines how long you will be able to use the camera between recharges. If your camera operated on 12V, there would be no harm in connecting it to a car battery, typically in the range of 50Ah, or 50,000mAh.


[pedant] No it's not, it has a different label. [/pedant]

MTBF = meantime between failures or how long on average you can expect it to last.

He'll be talking about "tap end of the bath" failures next.

When you start Photome, at the bottom of the page is the search bar. Left click in this and type shu(tter operations). This will find it for you.

Which version of Photome are people using?

The current version (which correctly identifies Sigma lenses) is version 0.79 R17 build 856. If yours is older, it might be worth updating.

I mentioned this earlier. Photome used to report my 150-500 as a 70-200. A week or so ago I noticed that it is now reporting the correct lens. My initial thought was that it was something that had been corrected by the 1.03 firmware upgrade, but that would not explain why older photos reported the correctly. It has to be an update to Photome.

[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Sunset1.jpg[/IMG]

DA*50-135, 50mm F8 1/25th ISO100

[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Sunset2.jpg[/IMG]

DA 18-55ii, 55mm F8 1/100th ISO200

Both resized from .raw so hopefully exif data intact.

I suspect some cropping would be in order to remove the near black areas.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks for looking.