thank you, we will

Enjoy your Nikon, and remember, the Internet is more fun if you assume everyone is just joking around. You'll be right >99% of the time, and the people you'll be wrong about you can safely ignore.

I'm not sure I understand either, that link just seems to confirm that JPG is the best option for long bursts.

if you don't like Pentax Photo Browser, or want something which is a little bit (but not too much) more complex/capable, try FastStone Image Viewer.

http://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDetail.htm

I don't know, but at a guess I'd say it's a lot easier to make a cheap lens in all mounts if you ignore electric contacts of any kind. A dumb lens is always the same, just with a different mount plate. An electric lens would need indexy whatsits to pick up the necessary information for each type of mount.

Pentax's recent lenses have tended to compensate for the 1.5x crop

85mm f/1.4 -> 55mm f/1.4
70-200 -> 50-135
50mm macro -> 35mm macro
18-35 -> 12-24

makes sense in many ways, if you wanted a 50mm macro before, you want a 35mm macro now, and the 50mm macro has been a stalwart of the Pentax range for a very long time.

The Super A has Tv, but I don't think the Program A does.

If it does have it they yes it would also work in Tv

edit: Bojidar agrees with me http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/bodies/film_A/index.html

Actually, since the Program A has Program mode, lenses without an aperture ring ARE usable, just only in Program mode (lenses without an aperture ring behave exactly like lenses with the aperture ring set to A).

As mentioned a lot of DA series lenses will vignette. Not all though, for example the 18-55 and 16-45 are full frame from about 24mm to full zoom.

Any Pentax lens from the FA series or earlier should work perfectly, DFA lenses should also work perfectly, FAJ, DA and DA* lenses will work in program mode only and the DA and DA*'s may vignette at some or all settings.

That may be the best expression I've heard this year

Of course, if you shoot RAW and keep the Pentax converter software on your PC, you can always batch convert using the camera settings and get the JPG you would have got out of the camera.

Except for card space (which lets face it is pretty cheap) it's the best of both worlds.

I long ago developed the policy that my cameras only have one quality setting, maximum.

In the case of the DSLRs, that means Raw. I'll select which data is "unimportant" thanks.

That said, if you want to see what can be done by a master who only shoots JPG, just have a look at John's portfolio.

Max quality JPG is like Slide film used to be. No second chances to tweak exposure, what you shoot is what you're going to display, but if you always get it right in camera the result will be fine.

In day-to-day shooting the thing I like best about RAW is being able to totally ignore white balance until I get home.