I'm sure you've realised this already, but make sure the SR is off as it will be working on the wrong focal length with the TC in place.

what on earth did you do while waiting for the battery to charge the first time?

that's what manuals are for isn't it?

Non-rechargeable CRV3s are straight Lithium cells with a native voltage of 3V, so they are fine (and last very very well). It's only the Li-Ion rechargeables which cause trouble.

CRV3 rechargeable are not recommended for use in Pentax cameras, since some of them (particularly the cheaper ones) spit out 3.7V instead of the 3V the camera is expecting. This is because 3.7V is the native cell voltage of a Li-Ion cell and it takes a little bit of clever electronics to make a Li-Ion powered battery pack produce anything which isn't a multiple of 3.7V.

For that reason, if you want rechargeable it is best to go for Hybrid or NiMH AAs.

Since my *istDL2 spends a lot of time on the shelf these days (I also have a K10D) I tend to use disposable Lithium AAs which last a very long time and have negligible self discharge.

Glad to head the film made it back safely.

With regard to DA lenses on film, the DA 50-200 is one which does vignette throughout its range unfortunately. The MZ-6 only has a 92% viewfinder so the effect will look worse on the final slide than it did through the finder

it's the auto-stop down pin which allowed cameras to stop the lens down automatically at exposure time, meaning the photographer could focus with the lens wide open. There was a moving plate inside the throat of compatible M42 cameras so that the camera could push the pin in when the shutter fired.

Most M42 lenses with this feature have a switch for Auto/Manual operation. If this is present, set it to manual and the aperture ring will work. If there is no switch, you'll need to jam the pin with something.

I don't believe anyone has ever said that f/22 will "ruin" a shot, but to claim that diffraction doesnt reduce resolution is just as rediculous.

Most lenses are diffraction limited beyond about f/11. Look at any lens test where the reviewer has gone through the whole range of available f-stops and you will see a clear peak in sharpness. The test of lens quality is how quickly it becomes diffraction limited, ie a really good prime might peak at f/5.6, a real duffer might still be improving at f/16.

You'll still get a good image at f/22, or they wouldn't bother putting that option on the lens, you'd just get a sharper one at f/11 or f/8.

just one more trade off between sharpness and depth of field.

the base ISO on the 6MP sensor (as used in the *ist series and the K100/110) is 200, it can't go lower than that.

Outside on a sunny day you may find that f/2 is unusable, but indoors or at night that extra stop will suddenly be a godsend. I have owned several 50s, from the M f/2 to the FA f/1.4 and all have been excelent in terms of image quality.


One point to note re flossies otherwise excelent answer though, Sv is Sensitivity Priority and isn't available on the K100D, I think Tv (Shutter Priority) is what was meant. P (program) and the scene modes should also be available with an A series lens, not sure if Auto-Picture will work though as it uses lens information which is only provided by the FA series lenses.

My Dad has a Sigma 24-60 2.8 and I must say it's excellent. If you're not bothered about the wide end, it's a gem, very good from wide open at all focal lengths.

I keep saying that to the bunny who sits on my shoulder, but he doesn't believe me!